I need to build a pergola for a customer. The main 8×8 and 6×6 beams need scroll work on the ends. The beams are 24’ long. Any thoughts on the correct type of tool to use? I was thinking about immobilizing the beams, placing my band saw on a cart with wheels, and trying to move the saw rather then moving the material. I’m not sure this is safest thing to do although I was going to hook it up to my foot pedal, which will allow immediate stopping. Any thoughts?
IBI(Michael)
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Replies
Portaband saw. It'll cost ya around $300, but it'll be a nice addition to the tool pile.
Mike Hennessy
Pittsburgh, PA
That is what my employee suggested. This is probably the route I will go I just really prefer the accuracy you get from a tabletop band saw. http://www.multichambernailgun.com/b2/
After I posted, I took another look at your OP. I'm not sure a portable bandsaw will be big enough for you -- 6"X6" is your smallest piece, and the portabands usually only go a bit over 4". Don't know if they come big enough to do an 8"X8". Can't think of an easy power tool way to do this without spending big bucks on a specialized tool. You could just chainsaw or recip saw from the edge of the beam to the line in a bunch of places, and clean up to the curve with handtools.
I recently tried to do some 4"X6"X8' like you originally suggested. Really tough to do, but do-able, I suppose. But my pieces were matchsticks compared to what you're attempting. And I ended up locking down the saw and moving the beams 'cause it was a pain the other way.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
This is a great place! I'm picked up some cypress Tuesday for a pergola as well, and need to shape the ends - either buy or renta a PortaBand.
Forrest
Mike - I just looked on Amazon. I'd probably get a Milwaukee, but they have 4 models listed:
#6236 $294
#6238 $250
#6232 $ 290
#6225 $293
#6226
Anybody got any explanations or preferences? They all seem to describe the same on Amazon!
Forrest
Didn't FHB have a short article some time ago about doing just this thing with a bandsaw on casters? Or maybe I read it here, I know I saw it somewhere....It would seem that if you had the timbers secured on sawhorses at the right height, along with a flat floor for the bandsaw to move on, that it would work.
Google "Milwaukee portable bandsaw". Look on one of the sites with more detail. Different HPs, throat depths, throat widths, multi-speed, etc.
Mike HennessyPittsburgh, PA
Yup, mobile (stationary) bandsaw is what I'd do. Not mine though, too heavy. Don't see much reason for a foot switch if you know how to feed wood to the blade. Few tpi is good.
I've found no difficulty with 12" thick, sharp band.
PAHS Designer/Builder- Bury it!
IBI.
Well I did mine on a bandsaw but wow what a battle!
I tried to do it by myself since they were only 9 feet long I made up feed and exit tables and still couldn't manage them.
The idea of wrestling my bandsaw around on anything except a gym floor while the timber stayed still would cause me to throw up! 24 feet yicks! Impossible!
I keep hearing that idea and in talking to dozens of timberframers no one ever does it that way..
The portable bandsaw idea is most common, however you might look around for a Hundiger machine and have them do it for you..
I watched Norm do this one time, exactly what you're proposing.
Norm had some pretty big beams to work with so he mounted wheels to the bottom of his 14" bandsaw. Sat the beam on some built up saw horses(to match the height of the bandsaw table) and rolled the bandsaw around to do the cutting. Worked out real well and all he had in it was the 4 swivel wheels.
I'd assume you'd have to do this on a pretty level surface.
Doug
Better check the capacity on those everyday porta-bands. Most of them are 4-3/4" and won't cut your 6x material. You'll need to spend well over a grand to get an Oliver, Mafell, Hema, or similar "corbel" saw that can handle it.
http://www.timberwolftools.com/tools/oliver/oliver.html
Although it takes a little effort, you can cut them by hand with a frame saw.
http://www.woodcraft.com/family.aspx?familyid=4608
Beat it to fit / Paint it to match
Depending on exactly what you're trying to achieve, a Lancelot might be just the ticket. It's a circular chain saw head for an angle grinder, comes in medium and course, and removes material quickly with a high degree of control. They're often used by wood sculptors.
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IBI
Better plan on buying one of those curved base planers as well. that or spend an awful lot of time with a big belt sander..
Just noticed your gun. Looks good.
We've done just that for scribing the ends on long stock and on a nice smooth floor it's an acceptable if cumbersome way to go.
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"You cannot work hard enough to make up for a sloppy estimate."
I worked for awhile in a laminated beam plant years ago.
Some of the beams required "scrolling" on the ends. These cuts were made using Turner-Walker bandsaws (Early Deltas). The machines were on narrow casters that traveled in patterned slots routed in plywood secured to the floor. The saws were pushed by hand by workers. Most of these beams were 12" to 16" deep IIRC. The cuts were nearly perfect.
I've cut a lot of patterned beam and log ends using a chainsaw with riders clamped to the bar that ride over a pattern box that the beam being cut lays in. I made my riders from UHMW and bolted to the bar. They're relieved to clear the chain. A chainsaw bar drills easily once you're away from the hardened chain slot by a 1/2" or so.
With this method, you can get a very nice cut that just takes a little cleanup with a sanding disc mounted on a 4 1/2" grinder.
And if you have a longer bar, you can clamp up multiple beams between your patterns for gang cuts.