Hi all,
I’m new, but so happy I found this forum. I am a 64 year old female and live in a small town in Tennessee (back to where I began). Just moved here from Nashville after a divorce. I’m used to taking care of everything, but I now have a dilema and hope someone can pls help.
About a month ago, I had someone build a screened in porch for me. I had no idea that there could be a problem with the wood. I stood outside and talked with the builder many days while he was working. I also swept the dust up as he progressed. I had no idea there could be problems with pressure treated wood. After he would leave for the day, I would go out there for 2 or 3 hrs. Soon my chest began hurting and I developed a respiratory infection. I guess there’s really no need to go into all this . . . bottom line. I need to treat this wood so I can go out and enjoy my deck this fall. I’ve been told so many things about what to seal it with, I don’t know what to do. Can someone please tell me what would be the best thing to stop the fumes (I’m told it is like insect repellant which I’m allergic to).
The EPA site recommends sealing with two coats of polyurathane, but every one else disagrees with that.
Any thoughts you may have will be greatly appreciated Thank you!
Replies
Once all the sawdust has bbeen cleard away, by wind or rain or broom, your problems should disappear ... unless you are one of the extremely small percentage of people allegic to the wood. Also, once it the green wood has had a chance to season and dry a bit, it will be less of a problem. Any incidental contact next spring, like touching the wood etc, should be a non-issue.
As far as sealing it, you need to let it dry before sealing, or else the excess moisture in the wood will cause the finish to fail. You could seal it with clear poly, or one of the penetrating finishes. Thompson Water Seal would not be a good choice ... it will only last about 6 months.
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
Thanks so much for your reply.
One more thing ... do you think it would be alright to put a stain on first (Porter) for decks and then ... apply two coats of Poly?
Also, the builder didn't drive the nails all the way in the wood on the part of the deck that holds the screen in and the nails are rusting big time.. do you know what would cause that?
Thanks so very much for your help.
Pif's right on the stain issue. A semi-transparent stain would look blotchy. You need a solid stain, and once that's dry you could apply a coat or two of exterior poly.
Sounds like the nails are holding a strrip of wood that secures the screen ... what about pulling the nails and using stainless, brass or bronze screws? (Put the screws in beofre you pull the nails.)Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
Martha,
Welcome in.
We are all learning new thibngs about this new treatment that was forced omn us to replace the old inert PT lumber.
But any sensitivity your are experiencing is more likely fromdust than from any "fumes". This chemistry is water based so no fumes should be getting to your lungs. You probably gort sensitized to the stuff adn once sensitized, it takes little exposure to set you off. I have a similar reaction to certain woods, some of which i worked with for years before developing the sensitivity.
Encapsulating with any deck sealer or stain should settle the dust and remove it from making you ill, in my opinion. Polyurethene is a good choice, as long as it is an exterior product having UV inhibitors to keep the suns rays from doing it in. That is probably the reason some folks take a stand against it. Original poly products were not long lived in exterior locations.
I wouild prefer an oil based product like Penofin, but if you are extremely sensitive, this could also be a negative experience for you. Test sniff it first
It is important to have the lumber as dry as possible before application to have it perform well for you.
The Thompsons which is widely advertised is easy to apply but it is a wax type of product which will fade quickly and need re-application every 6-12 months.
Hope this heps
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Thanks so much for your reply.
One more thing ... do you think it would be alright to put a stain on first (Porter) for decks and then ... apply two coats of Poly?
Also, the builder didn't drive the nails all the way in the wood on the part of the deck that holds the screen in and the nails are rusting big time.. do you know what would cause that?
Thanks so very much for your help.
Stains can end up looking a bit uneven on PT lumber since the chemical salts already occupy some of the wood structure that the stains would want to penetrate and application of any such product generally gives best performance if teh wood surface is sanded first, but that is something you want to avoid, so I would recommend a solid colour stain for you here, probaly latex, which means that you would be looking for a latex ( water based) polyurethene.
I don't know the Porter brandso I can't comment there, but all this is getting me to thinking that a polyurethene deck paint formulated for long wear and UV resistance and water protection is the right thing for you here.
Rusting nails - That is another concern all together. I mentioned previously that we are all learning new things about this new PT lumber.
we once were able to do fine with galvanized nails and screws in the old PT lumber - same as is required for any exterior application.
but we are now finding over the past year or so that the mineral salts used in the new formulation will eat away rapidly at the lighter galvanized coatings. The only fasteners acceptable for PT now are Hotdipped galvanized or stainless steel.
However, I am also wondering whether he even used galvanized at all. There are many times I see evidence that someone has used a pain old nail with no caoting of any kind for exterior work, evidenced by the rust and stains left runing down the siding or trim. This is too common but never right. only galvanized or stainless nails should be used on exterior work. And certanly he should use a nail set to set the heads.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
You and Ed recommend a coat or 2 of poly. I specifically recommend to my PT deck/porch customers against that - as experience has taught me that this is going to result in a finish that needs to be reapplied on a fairly regular basis, and if it is neglected will turn into a peeling mess - this would be a very regretful situation.
Now you have me wondering if I am wrong and thinking that I'm not up to date on the clear finishes that are now available. Want to provide some more info in this area? Matt
You are not wrong. I prefer oil finishes and I don't l;ike PT for dedck surfaces.
But the deck is already down and the lady needs/wants to separate herself from contact with the stuff so she needs a film barrier - extenuating circumstances call for different methods so we don't want to make the error of taking a specific and applying it to a generality.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
47944.11 in reply to 47944.8
What's a "regular" basis mean ???
Since I haven't applied anything yet.. the concensus I get from most of the posts are:
1) apply stain - not the translucent
2) apply two coats poly
Is this correct?
Thanks so much to all of you!
Martha
That would depend on whether there is a roof over it, how good the material is, how well it is applied the first time, and how much water and foot trafic it will see.
I have a porch deck open to the weather and winter snow and shoveling that I redo every two years with a solid colour stain. It doesn't peel on me - just fades and wears through.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
What's a "regular" basis mean ???
Since I haven't applied anything yet.. the concensus I get from most of the posts are:
1) apply stain - not the translucent
2) apply two coats poly
Is this correct?
Thanks so much to all of you!
Martha
Martha:
To me, re-coat on a regular basis means once a year, or, maybe at the very least, once every 2 years.
The thing is, if you just stain it, you can let it go for several years, maybe even indefinitely, with no dire consequences, except that the wood slowly deteriorates, showing damage after 4 or 5 years depending on the weather where you live, exposure to the sun, etc. Stain should be reapplied on a regular basis - say every 2 years, but if you don't it won't "peal" - obviously, since it is a penetrating type of finish.
If you coat it with a heavy film type product such as poly or paint you are making a commitment to re-paint/poly/etc on a regular basis. If you let it go too long, it will start pealing and it will be a total mess. The paint,etc does not stick as well to PT lumber because of the chemicals in it. It's not unusual that I have people call me with this type of situation, and I always say the best thing to do is replace it - of coarse I'm a carpenter/builder - not a painter - and there is no way I'm gonna spend one to 2 days sanding a deck or porch, then paint it, to end up with marginal results that I can't guarantee.
As far as your sensitivity to the PT wood, I have never had any of my customers say anything about it, and I have worked with the stuff for years with no allergy or ill effects. I'm not doubting that it is bothering you, but I say get someone to come and give it a light power wash to remove any surface chemicals/dust and let it dry for at least 3 or 4 days and then stain it. The latex based stains, although not my favorite, have the least fumes, etc. Then wait a few weeks to see if it still bothers you. Then, if you must, coat with a film type product like poly.
As far as the exact stain/etc product to use, go to a good paint store like Sherman Williams, Duron, Ben Moore, etc, not a home center or hardware, and get their recommendations.
I'd recommend finding out exactly what type/brand of wood was installed - there are several types now being used - ACQ, CBA-A, CA-B, CAZA, etc, and read the manufacturer's info - which is probably on the web. I really think that what you learn will help your understanding of the situation. They claim that all the new types are much safer than the old CCA pressure treating process.
Also, read this article: http://www.taunton.com/finehomebuilding/pages/h00127.asp
Good luck,Matt
Good thoughts and recommendations
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
Thanks Dirishinme,
I appreciate your help so much!
Martha
Piffin covered the finish aspect really well so I'll move on ----As for the nails --I bet they were just regular box nails --even reg. galv. will hold up for a while in the new PT. this is extremely unfortunate as there is no resulution but repalacement.---can you imagine pulling and reseting all those nails? When you finish the wood be sure to clean up the streaks so you don't seal them in ......the new finish will soften the streaks because they won't be able to sink into the wood ----As for the nail heads themselves----well lets just say-----they will never look good
Welcome aboard. Mike