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No matter how good you are the fact is that all laminate seams will show a “brown line”. And the seams will usually only look worse with age. (How many times have you gone back to a job after say 5 to 10 years and seen a seam that is much more gaping when you first left the job. TRY TO AVOID ANY SEAMS OR FIELD JOINTS IN LAMINATE WORK.ESPECIALLY AT A SINK.Here’s how we do it: If it’s a new kitchen with new cabinetry one can usually vary the base cabinet heights from 34 1/2″ to 31 1/2″. This gives a reason for the seams and also gives the kitchen some horizontal detailing which is always visually attractive and sometimes makes more appropriate work surfaces. If the cabinets are not being replaced one can still break up the counter by “letting in” a wood cutting board,a piece of solid surfacing, or even a section of ceramic tile. This also creates visual detail and some interesting work surfaces.
If none of the above can be applied then why not just reach a little deeper and install Solid Surface Veneer (SSV by Gibralter) Attributes of SSV : No visible seams; Any size or any geometry; Completely renewable surfaces; Choice of sheens; A look and fealing of solidarity, permanence, and quality.
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Hi Guys,
Everything said here is true. Seamless is always better. When a seam is impossible to avoid here's what I do. I cut both pcs with a trimmer at the same time. Ther shorter of the two should be at least 2 ft long. I set the first pc and then do the following. You need a pc of 3/8 dowel longer than the lenght of the seam. You place the dowel about 6" from the edge of the seam and parralell to it. Then place your laminateand press down about an inch and a half at the seam and then oress down the remaining part on the other side of the dowel. Now pull the dowel out and press the bubble out toward the seam. It creates a compression joint. I highly recommend a try or two on some scraps be fore your first try on the real thing. Excessive care is required when you initially trim the two pcs together to be sure you have an excellent seam. For more detail e-mail me. SteveM
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I would like to thank everyone that contributed their expertise on this subject. Imade up the jig that Adrian Wilson described and it worked quite well. I think I am going to cut a channel at a 45 degree angle for when a seam must meet in a corner. Thanks again Adrian and everyone else who gave suggestions.
*Seams on 45 degrees are to be avoided at all costs. I can not imagine a scenario where one would be called for. - jb
*Hi Jim, I have had a request for a "U" shaped countertop where the homeowners asked to have the seams angling out at 45 degrees at the base of the "U". I was wondering what kind of problems this can cause?
*Well, as you know, it is hard enough to make a good looking seam of any length. By going on a 45 the seam is just that much longer. But that is the one exception I guess, when the customer wants it that way. The customer is always right. I would do my best to talk them out of it though. - jb
*You are sure right about the customers request Jim; however, I do see your point about the extra long seams. I think I am going to try my best at tactfully talking them out of the diagonal seams. I appreciate your input.
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I have been doing p.lam. counters and cabinets for 25 years and the best seams that i have done have been when you lay the 2 pieces together and run the router between them using a straight edge. I have done some long seams this way with great results( 5')Seams at the sink always come out better and i have never had a problem with one due to moisture. also ,putting the seam at an angle in the corners is done when using a wood grain pattern.(at least thats what i was taught. A sharp bit is a key to a good seam.
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I have never done one of those woodgrain lookin' countertops, but that would be a time to consider 45s, you're right. - jb
*Even patterns and colours have a 'grain'; you can get caught if you aren't paying attention to it.
*I seam at the sink. On corners with miters some of those clips routed in to the underside still work for me. A little strategic smack with a rubber mallet lines things up nice. FWIW. Skip
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What is the best way to make nearly invisible seams when attaching plastic laminate sheets to a large countertop substrate? Is it best to cut the seam on both pieces at once or use a straight edge and cut both pieces individualy?
*I do both at the same time. I have a jig made up, which is basically a table with a trench cut across the width, deep enough to allow the bearing of a flush trim router bit. The bearing runs against ONE wall of the trench (and shouldn't come near the other wall). The walls on my jig are faced with plam for a smooth, hardwearing surface. You clamp down the pieces of plam so the router bit will trim a clean edge on both pieces at the same time, take your pass, and if there are any minor deviations on one edge, they are mirrored on the other.
*Nice jig Adrian. I lightly file the bottom of each sheet to help the face meet too. Another thing I often have to do is belt sand the back of one sheet to get it to the same thickness as the other. Hey - do you guys still put your seams in the center of the sink? I have started putting them off to one side, 'cause everyone looks for them around the sink. Especially with the Nebula colors, you can even fool a pro sometimes. - jb
*Adrian that sounds like a good jig . Jim I try to avoid seams if at all possible even if it means a big chunk of waste . But if I have to seam it I try to make it fall somewhere in the sink or cooktop area . I finish my counters in the shop , then install .Is that how you guys do it ? Or do you install substrate and laminate at the jobsite ? Chuck
*Hey Chuck - yeh, I agree about avoiding seams whenever possible. At 1.40/sq ft I'll gladly waste some laminate to do it. Never have pre fabbed a top, always lay 'em up on site. Do you overhang the back edges for scribing to the wall, or what? - jb
*Ditto on the large pieces/few seams. In fact, I wish they made sheets bigger; I have one to do coming up that is a straight run of 12'4"; that four inches pisses me off. We always make them in the shop, partly cause we often have a solid wood nosing and i don't want to have to laquer it on site. Lately, everyone seems to want a tile backsplash, but normally I'd do a separate laminate backsplash, so you don't have to scribe much. As far as joints, sinks make me nervous, but sometimes. I prefer the range, if they are using a slide in one.
*Jim , I use a 1x3 build up strip around the perimeter and just hold the back build up in about 1/2" so I'm only belt sanding 3/4" instead of 1 1/2" . Or I use a seperate splash like Adrian if no tile . I've been useing Wilsonart custom edge and splash quite a bit lately , makes a nice looking top and lots cheaper than solid surface . Chuck
*No matter how good you are the fact is that all laminate seams will show a "brown line". And the seams will usually only look worse with age. (How many times have you gone back to a job after say 5 to 10 years and seen a seam that is much more gaping when you first left the job. TRY TO AVOID ANY SEAMS OR FIELD JOINTS IN LAMINATE WORK.ESPECIALLY AT A SINK.Here's how we do it: If it's a new kitchen with new cabinetry one can usually vary the base cabinet heights from 34 1/2" to 31 1/2". This gives a reason for the seams and also gives the kitchen some horizontal detailing which is always visually attractive and sometimes makes more appropriate work surfaces. If the cabinets are not being replaced one can still break up the counter by "letting in" a wood cutting board,a piece of solid surfacing, or even a section of ceramic tile. This also creates visual detail and some interesting work surfaces. If none of the above can be applied then why not just reach a little deeper and install Solid Surface Veneer (SSV by Gibralter) Attributes of SSV : No visible seams; Any size or any geometry; Completely renewable surfaces; Choice of sheens; A look and fealing of solidarity, permanence, and quality.