I’ve removed the paneling that served as wainscoting in my family room (for far too long!) and am now faced with wall board that’s littered with residual glue and, where the glue stuck to the paneling, the wall board paper is torn – a real mess. I’m thinking the better finished product will be to remove the lower 4’ of the wallboard & replace it rather than trying to skim coat the whole lower 3’ of the walls.
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My concern is how to tape & blend the seam between the old (upper) wall board and the new (lower) board as the upper is painted and the seam depression already filled with joint compound while the lower panel will have the manufactured depression for seaming with another new sheet. Any advice out there???
Replies
Greetings and Welcome to BT!
You could help others to read your post if you'd go back and edit it, making the "size" a "2".
More than likely, the old tapered seam will at least crumble enough to get a new taped layer in it ( IF the DW was laid horiz.) If not, well, wet it down good and work at it with a stiff 2" blade and get it close.
Else wise, get a 24" knife or trowel and feather your butt (joint) like a madman.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dj_oEx4-Mc4
Thanks for the replies! And apologies for the original font size – 1st post & I never gave that a thought! Maybe that’s my best bet – only invite guests w/poor eyesight when my refinish job is done! Problem is the War Dept’s eyesight is pretty good! Hmmm...<!----><!----><!---->
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Hey – Sphere, what exactly did you mean by “get a new taped layer in it … If not, well, wet it down good and work at it with a stiff 2" blade”? Are you suggesting that I dig out the old mud/tape by wetting it, but being careful not to dig into the DW paper?
let me throw another option at ya. how about a chair rail? go in cut your drywall at 36",40" whatever .replace and cover the seam with a nice chair rail?
as far as replacing and taping it back it really isn't a huge deal,you will just have to feather it out about 16" on each side of the joint.larryif a man speaks in the forest,and there's not a woman to hear him,is he still wrong?
Yup. Work with the old taperd edge if possible.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dj_oEx4-Mc4
The world of people goes up and
down and people go up and down with
their world; warriors have no business
following the ups and downs of their
fellow men.
"I’ve removed the paneling that served as wainscoting in my family room (for far too long!) and am now faced with wall board that’s littered with residual glue and, where the glue stuck to the paneling, the wall board paper is torn – a real mess. I’m thinking the better finished product will be to remove the lower 4’ of the wallboard & replace it rather than trying to skim coat the whole lower 3’ of the walls.
My concern is how to tape & blend the seam between the old (upper) wall board and the new (lower) board as the upper is painted and the seam depression already filled with joint compound while the lower panel will have the manufactured depression for seaming with another new sheet. Any advice out there???"
Reposted so that I could read it.
Most people think that DW is FLAT.
It AIN'T.
Get a strong spot light and with the other lights off lay it against a DW wall. And look at all of the dips and valleys, and ridges, and hills.
The idea is that you get the repair tampered over a large enough area so that under normal lighting you don't see the hills and valleys.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
"Get a strong spot light and with the other lights off lay it against a DW wall."Or if you REALLY want to see the defects and imperfections, come back in the evening, skip the strong spot light, and use a 40 watt bulb.I've seen too many jobs where the taper sets up a blinding halogen tripod light in the middle of the room. The finished work looks like a million bucks until the customer moves in, and turns the dimmer down low on those wall-washer sconces.AitchKayPS WHOSE DW are you calling flat? Them's fightin' words! Me, I use GWB for MY walls and ceilings.
New drywall over the whole wall
That is why I said to lay the light against the wall so that it would have glancing light.I once replaced a living room and becuase the one wall continued into an entry that one wall of the entry. The entry wall was 2 stories.The HO only wanted a single coat and we where using the exact same brand and color. And it was a white.With the white and white and the 2 stories where I could only get a small area and had to move the ladder I was afraid of missing areas.So the first thing the next morning I checked with the front door open.At that time of the day the sun was just above the horizon and maybe 20* off the wall plane.I could not believe that I saw. Every stud, every nail, bulges here and there. I was horified until I looked closer and none of it was the paint job, but the DW. Closed the door and check again at 9:30 when the sun was a little higher and it look great..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
"So the first thing the next morning I checked with the front door open.At that time of the day the sun was just above the horizon and maybe 20* off the wall plane."Yeah, Bill, That's the secret: figure out what will be the most unforgiving light, and try to either view your work under those same conditions, or approximate them on your own. My experience has been that dim light (more shadows) is worse than bright (fewer shadows) for showing defects, and yes, I lay that 40-watt bulb right up against the wall and move it all over, to get all of those shadows.AitchKay
In all these years there are maybe 3 spacklers I have known who can pass the 100 watt bulb at the sharp angle test after priming.That's why a good plaster job is so great looking.
I'm with you. I do GWB work all the time, but I don't like it. GWB dents way too easily, for one thing, but my main complaint is that any imperfections are defects, and look terrible. GWB work has to be absolutely perfect to look good.With wet plaster, imperfections are proof that this is indeed the real deal, and a bit of waviness and signs of hand-trowelling are evidence that this is a first-class job. Not that I'm giving you permission to do a sloppy wet plaster job, mind you -- I still know the difference between good work and bad.AitchKay
Matter of fact, today and tomorrow I'm doing a skim coat to an old library that had some water damage & two of the walls & ceiling are alligatored, crazed etc..
On water damage stains, I strip & scrape, prime with Bin white shellac, then plaster with 3:1 JC & Plaster of Paris on the mix.
after that's dry I reprime usually with water base, (it's easier).Sometimes, if the job is big enough, I will slake the lime and use the white gauge, the traditional mix I learned on.
It doesn't float out as nice as lime, but JC is so available and sticks to about anything."Seams?!! Weeee don't neeed no steeenking seems!!"
"Sometimes, if the job is big enough, I will slake the lime and use the white gauge, the traditional mix I learned on." This is an English only site. Would you mind explaining what "slake the lime and use white guage" means?
adding burnt lime to the mix to help hydrate it...
or just letting the mix set for several days to make sure the mix has taken on all the water it can...
the same thing ya do to DW texture to help make the bateches a more uniform consistancy so thet you don't have viens of still dry mix in the batch...
a white gauge is a paint's mil gauge counter part... think along the lines of a slump test...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Actually, Gauging Plaster is like Plaster of Paris, don't listen to the man behind the curtain.
Slaking Lime is pre soaking it, before rewetting it to workable consistancy.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dj_oEx4-Mc4
The world of people goes up and
down and people go up and down with
their world; warriors have no business
following the ups and downs of their
fellow men.
What Sphere said.
The lime putty acts as the workable agregate to the plaster. You have to mix it & soak it overnight to a plastic consistancy like sour cream.
Guage plaster is a little coarser than POP is all & is more workable.
It should be 'finishers lime' & not mason's. USG does make it.
Sounds like a job for "D-MIX"!!!!Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Dj_oEx4-Mc4
The world of people goes up and
down and people go up and down with
their world; warriors have no business
following the ups and downs of their
fellow men.
I've done that very job and I found it easier to skim coat the entire wall than to remove and install new wallboard. Of course, it depends somewhat on your skimcoating skills. Mine are not great, but I've done a lot of taping and spackling including repairs where I had to skim large sections of drywall to hide the patch.
One big consideration for me was simply avoiding disposing of all of the old drywall. If I had a trash container on-site, I might have made a different decision.
We can discuss skimcoating if you decide to go that route.
One "trick" I've used to hide repairs where I didn't want a bulge from the joint paper is to remove the paper layer from the adjoining drywall and sand down the gypsum core a little bit creating a false taper. Soak the exposed gypsum thoroughly with primer (latex or oil) and when dry, treat it like a typical taper joint.
We do it all the time. Just feather it out wide. You might have to go 24"-36" on the seam depending on how the board matches up.
Just takes a little practice with the knives.
Family.....They're always there when they need you.
Another mistake I notice people making is they put too little mud on the wall.
You should do two or three light coats of mud, but people take that to mean that you only put a little on the wall and try to work it.
I've done seams that empty the trowel to cover the wall and by the time i'm done smoothing I have half a trowel again.
Family.....They're always there when they need you.