Fact is the garage sits at the bottom of the drive, and the garage slab slopes front to back. It came that way when we bought the house. The piece of PT I laid accross in front of the door helps in all but a downpour.
Have thought of breaking the slab in front of the door and pouring a concrete ditch around the puppy, with a grate on top. But wonder if I could just have a second layer of concrete poured over the existing slab.
The perimeter of the garage is masosnry block, 3 courses high. The existing slab has been there for years with no cracks or settling. Is this a practical alternative? It’s basically 24′ x 24′, and the existing ceiling is 10′-8″ above the floor, someone built an 8′ wall on top of the block.
Let’s not confuse the issue with facts!
Replies
If the idea is to keep water out, then cut the trench and put the grates across the front, with a drain underneath.
If you have another reason to start building the floor up, then do that.
Figure out the purpose and act accordingly.
Don K.
EJG Homes Renovations - New Construction - Rentals
A second slab would cost $500 - $800 depending on thickness. A day cutting and hammering and trenching will probably be as much. If 3 or 4 inches of conc. will fix it that would be my choice as long as headroom/door hieghts are accounted for.
Regards
Rik
Thanks. I thought cutting a 3-4" slab, digging through our wonderful North Carolilna red clay, building a sloped 'trench' with a ledge for a grate, and then finding or having a grate built would be a bit more of a pain than a second slab layer. Ceiling height is not a problem with 10'-8". T'would loose me the slab height in terms of effective garage door opening height, something I'd have to consider.Just wondering how feasible a second slab would be and if there are any things to particularly look out for with the second slab option.Let's not confuse the issue with facts!
Wouldn't something like tis work?
http://www.plumbingdirect.com/trenchdrain.cfm?source=ggtrench
I would cut the trench and lead the water to daylight and cover trench with a grate. Water diverted, problem solved. It is more work, but not much more when you consider that pouring a slab requires that you empty everything out of the garage and store it for a week or so while you do all the prep (wash, apply bonding agent, layout and tie rebar, pour and minimal cure.
If you add slab thickness, the water will still come in during the heaviest rains and even snow melt. Water may even work its way between the new and old slab. Don't know if any contaminants will prevent spot bonding even if you apply a bonding agent.
It is not only the head room within the garage that should be considered. Note the door header clearance - with a car in place. The slope of the driveway will lessen clearance while car is rolling in.
F
There he goes—one of God's own prototypes—a high powered mutant of some kind never even considered for mass production. Too weird to live and too rare to die.
—Hunter S. Thompson
from Fear And Loathing In Las Vegas
Cutting in a proper drain will handle more water than just building up the interior level. The extra thick slab will be a royal pain if you ever have to cut thru it, for instance, to make a pit for working under a vehicle.
-- J.S.