selective removal of cedar shake siding
I am about to work on a house that had, at one time, a porch attached directly to the house (also under the eave and on the north side of the house) and snow/rain/splashback has rotted the sheathing and shoe. My problem is that the house is sided with shakes. I’d like to avoid removing the whole wall of shakes (all I need is the bottom two feet or so). What’s the best way to remove and reinstall shakes without taking the whole wall off?
thanks,
Adam
Replies
I'm going to be dealing with the same problem soon so I'm curious to hear how everyone handles this.
I've been thinking about removing the shakes either using a shingle ripper to slice through the nails, or splitting out the cedar with a chisel. I'm sure someone with more experience and ideas will be along shortly.
>>>>>>>>>>>>I've been thinking about removing the shakes either using a shingle ripper to slice through the nails, or splitting out the cedar with a chisel.You'll probably have to do a little of both.
Its never too late to be up to date.
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to remove the bottom two feet
you usually have to remove about the bottom three feet, because of the nature of "shingle thiefs" ( shingle removal tool )
also.. this is so labor intensive that if you are paying people to do it , it is often cheaper ( and better ) to remove all the siding on the face and replace it
if you are just patching in a window , it's one thing.. but thiefing 3' of an 8' wall becomes a "damned if yo do and damned if you don't " situation
waterbear.. on the cheeks of your dormers, i'd rip the whole cheek and not bother trying to thief them
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Edited 5/21/2006 5:53 pm ET by MikeSmith
Thanks for the advice, Mike.We'll be replacing the siding, but that's not in the budget until next year. So would the most prudent thing be to take off (quickly and not too carefully) what I need to get the flashing in place, then just leave it in this condition until we get to the siding next year?
it's kinda like being a little bit pregnant... no such thing
you might be able to make a saw cut and slip some flashing in as a temp thing.. but it's usually one thing or the other..
thief it or rip it and paper it inMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Totally can be done. Just a matter of time and patience.
Your best bet is to start at the topmost course you want cleared and use the shingle ripper or thief or hook, or whatever you want to call that gizmo.
That way, you will be "working down" on the courses below, which is easier, particulary when there is an undercourse layer at the bottom.
FYI, when I did some patching on the cedar shingle siding on my house a couple years ago, I was able to find a shingle ripper at Harbor Freight tools; it was pretty cheap and it worked fine. Since it's just a bent hunk of metal it's the sort of thing HF excels at. :-)