I have a concrete slab that was an 8’x42′ porch which is now going to be part of the kitchen. I need to feather the 8 foot span up to 1/2 inch. I’ve priced Adrex and other products like it and I’m looking at anywhere between $28-$33 per bag and I need about 23 bags. That’s fairly costly, looking for another solution. Anyone make their own with portland cement? I’m going to cover with plywood after level. -Ed
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what kind of floor are you putting on it after the kitchen is done?
kdinger, I going to put down hardwood. -Ed
well if your going to put down hardwood are you going to put sleepers and a subfloor under it? if yourusing real hardwood floors you will have to put something under it besides concrete. if the floor is only out a 1/2 inch in eight feet you should be able to shim your sleepers easily as long as you shim them about every 12 inches.id put pressure treated 2x4s 16"oc and then put 3/4 t&g plywood glued and nailed on top then rosin paper and your hardwood floors.also i would suggest insulating between the sleepersand putting a vapor barrier under the plywood.all of this would be done after your exterior walls are up so that your shimming issues would be in the floor only.
i hope this info will help you ed
Kdinger, I was going to put the ply right over the concrete since it has to meet up with the existing wood floor which is going toget a new subfloor as well. That's why I thought I'd do the floor leveler first, but after pricing the product for the amount I'll need, I may go with 1x's for sleepers then shim like you said. Thanks for the post. -Ed
that will work to ed. just make sure you use PT 1xs and put in a vapor barrier
good luck
keith
I shim with layers of 1/8" Luan plywood skin on top my plywood sub floor. Its a lot cheaper than Ardex.
Jeff in so cal
68 f---57%
If you are going to use plywood why not shim up the low side and fill the rest of the void with sand or mortar.
ANDYSZ2
I MAY DISAGREE WITH WHAT YOUR SAYING BUT I WILL DEFEND TO THE DEATH YOUR RIGHT TO SAY IT.