I had to remove some cast iron DWV pipe in order to get a snake in and clean out the line to the main line. That’s done and now I’m having trouble visualizing how I can replace some of the pieces–presumably with PVC.
The basic problem: I need/want to replace what I THINK is a 1/4 bend with high heel inlet (4x4x2) and haven’t found that available in PVC. ( I found low heel but not high.)
More details: The picture shows at the bottom of the hole, a 4 inch sewer line heading for the main (to the right in pic). A 2 inch line (on left in pic), from kitchen sink dumps into that 4 inch. The 4 inch piece I cut out went vertically from there to the 4 inch pipe cut off in the upper left of pic. Since the 2 inch line is offset a couple (?) inches from the center line of the 4 inch, I can’t see how any of the standard PVC fittings I’ve found would allow me to hook these up with appropriate drainage.
I’ll also note that the 4 inch fitting and 2 inch pipe all rotate fairly easily around the 4 inch pipe axis so I presume I need to replace all of that, rather than try to remove the rest of the cut-off vertical piece, and re-use it?
I appreciate any suggestions you may have!
Thanks.
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Parolee # 53804
OK if I understand you corectly, you are replacing the 4x2x4 cast iron fitting in the pic.
If that is the case, you will need a 4" combo & a 4x2 reducer, but before I run off on some tangent I want to be sure that is what you're doing.
“When politicians and journalists declare that the science of global warming is settled, they show a regrettable ignorance about how science works.” Nigel Calder, editor of New Scientist
You're correct about what I'm doing.The problem is the 4x2 reducers I've found have the 2" offset by maybe 3 inches(?), while the offset I need is far less. Hope that makes sense.Thanks.
OK see if this makes sense.
Install a new 4" combo as far down stream on the pipe as possible, then using street 22.5 bends (male x female) offset the 2" to line up to the center of the 4" pipe then use a 4x2 fitting rdeucer in the 4" combo.“When politicians and journalists declare that the science of global warming is settled, they show a regrettable ignorance about how science works.” Nigel Calder, editor of New Scientist
It makes sense, and I had looked at 22.5s, and 45s, at the hardware store but couldn't visualize how to get such a small 'offset'. (Spacial relationships are not my forte.) I'll go back and play with them at the store. <g>Another question: I've dug out the 2" line some more and found it to be black plastic. Presumably ABS?? I've got it in the back of my mind that ABS is not supposed to be, or can't be, attached to PVC? No code here, but I do want it to work, and last.Thanks again.
Correct, ABS does not attach to PVC. You will need to use a "no-hub" style coupling, which is the same connection that you would have to use if it was cast iron too.“When politicians and journalists declare that the science of global warming is settled, they show a regrettable ignorance about how science works.” Nigel Calder, editor of New Scientist
Wait a sec - I have ABS and PVC attached in a few places in my house, and some of it recently done by a plumber... Am I missing something? I thought you could w/ the correct "general purpose" cement?
General Purpose is can be used on either PVC or ABS, but not the combo.There is one called TRansistion Cement that can be used.Some codes apparently allow one transistion in a house, other not..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Thanks Bill. I guess I might as well fix the one I did last year (the orig abs fitting behind a lav looked like it had never been glued and leaked all over) but the ones that have been there 20 years (main stacks have a PVC cleanout in b/w ABS) I will leave alone.
Works & right are two different things.
I know if I sandwich a piece of 12 gauge sheetmetal between two 2x4's & put it above a 10' wide window it will hold up fine, but its not right though.“When politicians and journalists declare that the science of global warming is settled, they show a regrettable ignorance about how science works.” Nigel Calder, editor of New Scientist
So what do I do? I had a licensed plumber add a drain for a kitchen remodel, and the new pipe is all PVC that looks to be solvent welded to the existing ABS. Same w/ the replacement bathtub and shower.
Also, every single lav in my house has ABS peaking through the wall/floor with a white PVC thread connection for the P/S trap and sink connection. Are all of these situations "wrong"? If this was your house, what would you do to correct it if it was a problem?
The threaded connections are legal.
As for the solvent welded connections, they don't meet UPC code. If it was my house & it's already done, then I would just leave it alone.
Here's an example, in one of my previous houses I needed to swap out a 2 handle shower valve & put in a single handle one. I didn't want to solder the copper that was there. By code you are not aloud to use compression joints in a concealed location, but I knew I had some that were bullet proof & it would have access, but they were concealed. I knew it would hold just fine, so I did it. An inspector would have shot it down, but I wasn't about to pull a permit just for a valve swap.“When politicians and journalists declare that the science of global warming is settled, they show a regrettable ignorance about how science works.” Nigel Calder, editor of New Scientist
Thanks plumbbill - I got a little worried, but I will move on and try to not dwell on them!
When I dismantled the in-law suite kitchen last week I found stuff way more exciting - like the range hood vented to the outside (through the rim joist and deck ledger...) using 4" plastic flex. Lovely. And my favorite, the bath room is on the same 15A circuit as the family room. Atleast I will leave everything better than I found it!