I’m posting this over in knots too, but I thought the more responses the better.
1 when sharpening (by hand) should the stone be flooded w/ oil?
2 The first tome you use a stone, should it suck up the oil imedatally. after multiple uses should less absorbtion occur?
3 How wide should the micro bevel be on a plane? should there be one on a chisle?
4 When honing it daily should i just do the micro bevel?
5 the stone got a little gummed up w/ metal particles. should I wash off the stone, of brush it, or what?
“It is like hitting yourself in the head with a hammer: it feels so good when you stop”
Edited 2/6/2008 5:52 pm ET by andyfew322
Edited 2/6/2008 5:57 pm ET by andyfew322
Replies
1=yes
2=yes
3a=1/32 more or less
3b=yes
4=yes
Don't forget to strop with either a hunk of leather belt or the HEEL of your hand. I use the side of my boot instep.
EDIT: look close at the edge of the plane Irons from the planes I sent ya, they were sharpened perfectly.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"
Edited 2/6/2008 5:52 pm ET by Sphere
what's strop. BTW I added a fifth ? can you answer that too. they were sharpened nicely, i went by that
"It is like hitting yourself in the head with a hammer: it feels so good when you stop"
Edited 2/6/2008 5:56 pm ET by andyfew322
A strop removes the real fine wire edge that is left from honing, by bending it back and forth on the leather, it breaks it off, to leave a real fine edge.
Just slide the bevel one way,(away from digging in) at a fairly steep angle, then the back side a little more flatter. About two or three times each side..that will break off that thin whisker of metal that can roll and keep the edge from being as good as it can be.
It is REALLY hard to explain in words.
MAybe ask your Dad if remembers how a barber strops a razor.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"
#5 Some plugging is natural, a bit more oil next time will help.
If it gets REAL bad ( like not cutting) use another stone to clean and scrub the plugged one. Flat face to face, run in circular manner, WITH oil or WD-40 or Kerosene. I use kero and clean motor oil mixed 50/50 for sharpening, it works good to keep the stone clean.
You can wash the stones in soapy water, but I have never had to, except for my ceramic stones, they glaze over quick, being very fine. Red or green scrubbies can help. Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Success is not spontaneous combustion, you have to set yourself on Fire"
1. Only flood the stone with oil if you are using oil stones. I personally use water stones, but I have used oil stones too. The oil floats the tiny particles of metal away and prevent the stone from getting plugged with them.
2. Yes the stone will not soak up as much oil in subsequent use.
3. Micro bevels are a matter of personal preference. When I use them, I just raise the angle slightly for the final grit (if the main bevel is 30 degrees, then the micro bevel would be 25, for example. I think the smaller the micro bevel is, the better.
4. Hone it as only as much as it takes to keep it sharp. If you can restore an edge with a fine stone or a strop, do so. Eventually, your angle will need to be restored or the edge will get chipped etc.
There are a lot of different ways to skin a cat here--oil stones, sandpaper on glass, belt sanders, water stones, etc can all work.
I use a 1000/4000 waterstone, and I store it in an old Porter cable biscuit container. Perfect size. Every so often I rub it against a large carborundum stone to flatten it. You could also rub it against a sheet of 200 grit wet sandpaper on a sheet of glass or marble.
"Put your creed in your deed." Emerson
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt