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Looking for all techniques for sheeting gable ends. We always use full sheets off of ladders or scaffold, quite slow process. Someone told me they cut the sheets in 2 foot lengths, that way they can hang over the sheets from the top plate and nail. I worry about losing strength. Just want to see if there is any tip that makes the job easier, more efficient or just plain better.
Thanks for all tips.
Framing the floor inside a crawlspace foundation keeps a gable-end addition close to grade.
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Replies
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On the stack, with full sheets, with the overhang and subfacia.......then the crane puts it up there. Sheathing off ladders? .....did I just cross over some time line here? What century is this?
*my question must be phrased wrong. The Gable end walls. To Keith, we use A-frame ladders with an aluminum plank. What do you stand on while sheathing the gable end walls. Keith you must build alot of homes with trusses, not too many cranes when you stick build.
*stick built : most will sheath the gable end with the gable lying on the deck and then tilt the entire thing into place with man-power or Proctor wall-jacks... with trusses : if we're sheathing off staging we use full sheets and call the measurements to the cutman on the ground...cutting them into 2' strips is going to do nothing for you..it sounds like keith is flying the whole assembly which most production builders with crane access would be striving for... coordinating and paying for cranes doesn't fit into a lot of operations..
*Eric - do you sheath and side your walls before you stand them?
*Eric, I agree with Mike . I don't think two foot rips are going to save you any time. If we don't sheet the G.E. when it's laying down then I put two guys on ladders and one guy cutting the sheets on the ground. Dave
*I have never sheathed the gable end walls before they are put up. We sheath the 8'wall but then stick in the gable end studs from ladders and then sheathe it. I appreciate the info. Maybe I will balloon the gable wall entirely and then lift it. Cranes don't fit the budget. I guess good old two guys and a cutman are the best way.
*Eric, your statement was "I have never sheathed the gable end walls before they are put up"; on the other hand, we have never sheathed a GE wall after it is put up; too dangerous, too slow, and too awkward. With trusses or stick, it's a simple matter to build the gable end laying down, sheet it, snap a line (or even use a sawzall to trim), and then stand it. Much faster, and much safer. Don't understand what the concern is with sheathing/not sheathing while the wall/end-wall section is up.
*Eric, here's a pic of us swinging a gable into place. It's a rather tall (14/12 pitch) one that stands ontop of a 12' wall. I would rather commit harikari than sheet that and install overhangs off ladders. There's an even taller one in the back of the house which is ontop of a 10' wall, ontop of a 12' walkout (walls and deck combined total 12'). I'd retire before I'd do that off ladders.Your idea of ballon framing has merit. Quite often, I balloon frame small gables if they contain a cathedral ceiling and a round top window that is higher than the top plates. Sometimes I scrap the gable trusses that are sent with the truss package. I find that I can get better results stick framing the entire wall. I use wall jacks on these (not Procters-I use a different brand).On some gable end walls I two-stage them. First, I stand the main wall. Secondly, I set up some rudimentary work platform (usually a couple of strategically placed microlams or 2x12's) and stick frame the gable (or use the gable truss). I sheet it and put the overhangs on it. I use wall ties to hold the gable onto the wall and raise it by hand or the wall jacks, depending on it's weight. Actually, most gables are relatively light and easy to lift.I spent two days with myself and my son, on the current job, sorting the trusses and sheathing the gables. There were six gables to be done. We had them strewn all over the landscape. All were 14/12. We have probably a total of 20 hours pre-fabbing, 2 more setting, and will need about 6 more tying the corners (finishing the cornice). That's 28 hours total on 6 large, tall gables complete with tyvek, tyvek tape, brick rack, 6" overhang and gable vents. Oh yeah, it's much safer!No 40' ladder work for me!bluePs I'd have built that one on a top-of-the-wall temporary platform if I wasn't going to use a crane.
*Blue,That hand gettin' unsteady? Too much sawzalling or what?Two guys can stick the sheets through the studs and get them mostly nailed off. Then, get out your alumapoles and pump up, tyvek up to the unnailed part, nail the rest off, then tyvek, put on your soffits, corners, windows, siding,etc.
*Stick frame - pre-sheet before standingTruss roof - pre-sheet before standing gableNothing on the ground, no craning. All trusses lifted onto walls. Ladders? Mostly for installing windows.
*Yes Dawg, them's were unsteady hands. I think it was our 9th hour and I'm a 6 or 7 hour type guy.Dawg, I'm wondering how your two guys stick the sheets out hanging off ladders that are way, way up there....on the inside?! The span of the rear gable is 23' 8" with a 16" heel on top of a 10 wall. Do the math-it's a 14/12 pitch. I'm guessing about 25 feet to the peak on the inside. I don't know about you, but I don't like dragging plywood up 25' of ladders. The exterior grade is no picnic either. I' don't want anything to do with setting up ladders nor scaffolds. I want everything pre-fabbed. I will hang over to tie the final pieces of cornice. Here's a pic of the plans and grade.blue
*Blue,I like to build them like you, except I haven't tried to add the overhangs as a unit, though I'd like to. I don't like ladders a heck of a lot either, and this last house is tall. I've scared myself a few times.I practically refuse to carry sheets up a ladder. There's got to be a good reason. That's why I bought the alumapoles, safety. I'm in good physical condition, would hate to cripple myself feeling this good!
*Dawgger, if you want to learn how to build the overhangs while the wall is laying on the ground, just have your guys hold you up in the air, horizontal while you're doing the nailing. That way, you can pretend that the wall is standing.All the parts are exactly the same. The parts are placed at exactly the same place whether the wall is standing, or temporarily horizontal.blue
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Looking for all techniques for sheeting gable ends. We always use full sheets off of ladders or scaffold, quite slow process. Someone told me they cut the sheets in 2 foot lengths, that way they can hang over the sheets from the top plate and nail. I worry about losing strength. Just want to see if there is any tip that makes the job easier, more efficient or just plain better.
Thanks for all tips.