I am about to remove some old paneling and replace it with sheetrock. This is in a short hall with only several feet between doors. I know that generally drywall is applied in horizontal sheets, but is there a compelling reason not to put the sheets on vertically? If I do it this way, all my taper joints will be over the doors…..less taping. Is there something I haven’t considered?
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Nope- nothing wrong with that at all. It's done all the time in commercial work.
One thing you don't want to do, though, is create joints at the corners of openings. These tend to crack due to movement (shrinkage, expansion, etc). If you break the sheets in the middle of the door opening it'll be less of an issue.
Bob
On my first DW DIY job ever, I broke the joints right above the angles in the doorways. I guess it didn't occur to me that you could cut a sheet in an L-shape. Everyone of those joints opened up, just as you say they would. I wish I had had your advice at the time.
Live and learn, my friend.
Do ya think I learned it by reading Breaktime 20 years ago? lol
Bob
Edited 5/3/2005 4:22 pm ET by BobKovacs
I agree with what you said but I think those kind of cracks happen mostly in new construction. On an older remodel I would bet that they would be somewhat less likely. If his joints are on cripples above the door rather than on the king stud I doubt if it would be a problem.
I there any good reason to remove the paneling? You already have jamb issues on any doors and windows. The panels give some strength, could even use 3/8 dw if available.
There have been some threads about the vertical issue. I anaylize (or over anal it) which way to hang on my small jobs.
Edited 5/3/2005 9:08 pm ET by RASCONC
Sounds like a plan.
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The main reason drywall is hung horizontally is simply that it is harder to tape from bottom to top in a continuous pass. I don't know if joint over doors are as susceptible to cracking as joints at the corners, but I wouldn't be surprised if they are not at least more prone to cracking than field joints.
If you are attaching to vertical studs (rather than say horizontal furring strips), it is better to hang horizontally. In general you want the "grain" of the DW perpendicular to the supports you're fastening to. See the Taunton DW book for an explanation.
"If you are attaching to vertical studs (rather than say horizontal furring strips), it is better to hang horizontally"
That's how it is always done here. Joints break on studs. Butt joints are taped. When the walls are professionally finished you cannot see the butt joints once the walls are painted, and I've installed chair rail and crown moldings plenty of times, and there has never been a noticeable "bump" other than those caused by irregularities in the framing lumber.
Thanks to all of you. Sounds like vertical is fine as long as I take placement of the joints into consideration. Good point about whether the paneling even needs to be removed. I have considered pros and cons of this. The thing is that it is 1x6 t&g. Putting drywall on top of that will make the wall thick enough that I will need to extend all the door jambs, or build up the casing to trim the doors. I've had to do this in a few other places and it's a pain. Also, I am going to add some new wiring, so things will go easier if the wall is open.
Plus you can salvage the 1X6" for some other cool usage! Like, flooring. Or cabinets.I don't recall if you said how old your house is, but openings in older houses may not be framed the way we think of them today, ie, king, jack, header, cripple. I know mine weren't.
I agree completely with what Bob said first. It is relatively easy to install blocking above the door for the edge of a sheet to land on if there isn't any in the right spot now.