I’m in the process of enlarging a wall enclosure that was originally made for a 40″+ TV. My question concerns my butting up the new sheetrock to the present finished wall (satin laytex). Should the painted wall (sheetrock) be sanded to hold the drywall compound to prevent the compound from falling off latter or am I making more work for myself?
Keedman
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I think you're making more work for yourself. I've not had problems getting compound to adhere to paint.
Others might disagree...
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Sure...sand it. Couldn't hurt. Then again.....why bother? Flip a coin.
Actually there's enough adhesive in joint compound that it should stick to any painted surface.
Edited 4/27/2007 12:01 pm ET by Hudson Valley Carpenter
A cheap insurance I would use in such a case is to prime the old painted section to which you're butting against. fast and easy & mud (and everything else) sticks to primer mo' better.
Won't hurt, might help, and will only take 4-5 minutes to do it.
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Either lightly sand to take the gloss off the paint (even though it is satin finish there is an element of gloss there) and provide some tooth for the mud, or prime.
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Me, I'd be very very inclined towards just making a reveal, and not daring the joint-compound v. paint adhesion "game" at all.
That, and like as not you won't have the kind of access to get behind the new rock to be able to really shim it to "flush" to the existing--which means a bunch of sanding to get a match (or floating to match; either a tunne of work).
That may not be possible here--you may very well need a flush, smooth wall. In that case, I'd go ahead and taper the existing walls to where the new joint will be, which solves both problems (if with the creation of a bunch of dust, and more hours at this before being done).
"and not daring the joint-compound v. paint adhesion "game" at all. "
?
So you've never heard of patching a hole in a wall ?
crazy stuff like that happens all the time ...
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry In Carpentry
Pittsburgh Pa
So you've never heard of patching a hole in a wall ?
Sure, but a patch around the size of the mud knife is a bit different than OP's 40"-odd square, probably out in the middle of what is to now be pristine wall.
I'm just picturing the hole in the wall being filled. Unlike a patch, where, there's some sort of "planarity" this is span the big hole, 2-3 cripples' worth. Which then needs some intricate shimming & fussing before putting most of a half sheet of gypsum board up. OP sounded a bit like they were expecting that the big hassle would be spanning the new back to the painted; that's where I went thinking, which can be dangerous territory for me, I'll admit.
But, I tend to add a foot to drywall work in my head, too, fo how much gets added in to do it right. But, I'm not any kind of fan of drywall finishing, and never was more than mediocre at it, either. Doorknob-puched hole would be different--always is.Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)
You're right, I'm going to live on the wild side and not sand. Thanks again. Joe (Keedman)
Should the painted wall (sheetrock) be sanded
Don't bother unless it's a lacquer-based paint, in which case yes.
Butt the tapered edge of the new rock to within a quarter inch of the face of the old wall, mud the corner, stick on a piece of StraitFlex, mud over it with a 6" knife, and let dry.
Go wide on the face of the old wall for the second coat, say a 12" or 16" trowel. You shouldn't need more than a 6-8" knife for the tapered edge on the new wall. Let dry.
Sand. Fill and feather. Let dry. Close your eyes and feel it. Do the final sanding with the palm of your hand, no sandpaper.
You're done.
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If you're feeling spunky you could dillute some Weldbond( http://franktross.com/weldbond.asp ) with water. Apply to existing paint, allow to dry, mud to taste.
Try it, it's fun.
Leave it go.
So you've got a cubby hole up in the wall that held a 40" TV?
Screw in some 2x4s through the rock into the existing framing around the inside of your hole, set them back about 5/8" to 3/4" from the corners. Cut your piece of drywall and screw it up. Draw a straightedge across your patch, making sure the new rock isn't proud of your wall. If it is adjust your 2x4s, or plane it down. Mesh tape the joints, and mud away. I'd often use the 20 minute setting compound (easy sand) to fill the joints first, it saves on dry time for the regular mud's first coat and you get less cracking. Right after that I'll start with the regular mud.