I read a lot about the wonders of shellac here and had a couple of questions …
1. Will it work w/ pine windows (possible humidity )
2. will it yellow or amber over time?
3. Can it be used under water lox? and will water lox yellow over time ?
thanks ..
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Just a bump till Frenchy finds ya.
#2 yes
m/ (>.<) m/
http://www.cocoboloboy.co.nr
Answers:
1.yes
2.yes
3.yes, yes
Shellac can be used on pine windows,( interior side only) but won't hold up to water spills and/or excessive heat build-up. Over time, the shellac would have to be renewed.
Shellac always yellows with age...even the "clear" variety...though not nearly as much. The amber shades darken faster and get darker than the clear.
Shellac is a good base to use as a seal coat. Dewaxed varieties are usally used and even labeled as seal coats. Once a seal coat has dried, just about any topcoat finish can be applied. Seal coats are best diluted with denatured alcohol...about a 50/50 mix ratio. Waterlox is basically a varnish. Waterlox is good at waterproofing and other protection...but it yellows more than most other varnishes and polyurethanes.
Minwax water based Polycrylic will give you a clear, non yellowing finish. However, being water based, it tends to raise the grain until dried, and the sheen is kinda on the dull side compared to oil based finishes.Also, you need to apply more coats in order to equal the smae protection that an oil base poly would afford.
Spray lacquer will give you a cystal clear finish, that protects and does not yellow, but the downside is that it must be sprayed on and you should wear a mask and have good ventilation.
Some lacquers can be brushed on, but it is said they often yellow somewhat with age .
Check out FWW issue # 184 and also issue # 187. They give some good insights.
Good luck on your project.
Davo
Mr. Frenchy to the white courtesy phone please...
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Davo did a fine job ..
The type of wood doesn't matter.. however single pane windows prone to frost or sweating it shouldn't be used.. I have it on my double pane windows because even at 40 below they don't frost up.
Shellac by itself is a fine finish.. add whatever you want on top of it but it's a belt and suspenders approach. actually worse because most other finishes don't strip off as easily as shellac does. Shellac can remain for decades, however if damaged or a need to remove all you need to do is soak it with denatured alcohol and it wipes right off..
As to yellowing, all finishes will darken with enough exposure to UV light. Plus the pine itself will darken. It may take a long time to do so depending on various factors, but with the ease of removing shellac comes the ease of refinishing it..
isn't it true that in a long period of time, shellac can get very dark?
50+ years yes it might. Please note that it might not will, depends on UV exposure, plus how thick it was applied. What actually needs to happen is that thick shellac needs to "alligator" and when it does dust & dirt will become incorporated and cause the shellac to darken. It took my piano 70+ years to do that and any shellac that was not exposed to light remains perfect. Violins and other wooden items protected from UV exposure can remain beautiful for centuries.
On the other hand I simply wiped of the old shellac and reapplied new and where the edges of the new shellac met the old shellac they melted together for invisable repairs.. I had less than a days worth of work to totally refinish my piano to the point where it looks new!