I’m getting ready to shingle a new roof. I seem to recall that you hang the starter shingle over the drip edge a half an inch and the first course is flush with that. Is that correct? I’m using the tech shingles not the three tab.
Thanks
Roy
I’m getting ready to shingle a new roof. I seem to recall that you hang the starter shingle over the drip edge a half an inch and the first course is flush with that. Is that correct? I’m using the tech shingles not the three tab.
Thanks
Roy
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Replies
I always put my shinlges flush with the drip edge. Never did see any point in letting them hang over.
Where are we going, and what am I doing in this handbasket?
I hang 'em an inch past the drip edge, especially on the rakes. Just personal preferenc, I guess, but it seams to me that surface tension will pull the water around the edge of the shingle and down across the face of the drip edge. That's fine if the gutter is under the drip edge and/or the drip edge stands proud of the fascia. Often this is not the case, so why not add a little protection. On the rake ends, I've seen many cases where the roof had sagged slightly toward the center and water was curling over the edge of the shingle and entering between the shingle and drip edge.
Good Luck.
I usually overhang the shingles 1/2" to 3/4" beyond drip edge. The heavier the shingle the more overhang.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
"DO IT RIGHT, DO IT ONCE"
1/4 to 3/8 max.. and if your drip edge isn't dripping it's installed wrong or has the wrong profile.. since the drip edge (F5) already sticks out 1" that plus the true shingle overhang of 1/4" to 3/8" is plenty.. more overhang just begs for broken and curled edges..
and you are using drip edge up the rakes too, no ?.. if not .. why not ?Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I think we're using the same drip edge that Mike referred to as F5, but here it's referred to as "D" edge. We install it such that the drop face of that D edge is 1/4" off the fascia to insure that there's no water running down the fascia and that there won't be any problem getting the gutter under it. We then set our shingle flush to the lead edge of the "D" edge with no overhang cause like Mike said, it's already an inch out there.
Make sure the drip edge is under the paper on the eaves and over the paper on the rakes.
Better yet, get some Grace on those edges.
Flush with the drip cap, if the gutters install tight to the fascia. 1/2" if the gutters are clip mount. 3/4" overhang on the gables. What exactly do you call tech roofing?
sometimes board sometimes knot
Thanks eveyone..........Yes I have drip on the gables and I the newer style of shingles tech shingles. I'm going with 1/2 overhang as my gutters will be tight and flush up the gables.
Thanks again
Roy
I guess that right sounded about...
sometimes board sometimes knot
The heavy grade, laminated shingles that are intended to look like wood shingles for architechtural styling are called, as a group, Archi-tech-tural grade shingles. That gets shortened to the term tech.
I like to think that all the opverhang info has something to do with water dripping off and surface tension.
That means that on a 12/12, I would be happy holding the edging snug to the fascia. But on a 3/12, I'd be doing something to hold the metal away so water can drip free or I'd leave a half inch of overhang in the shigle. No More or it will bend and break like Mike said..
Excellence is its own reward!
"Archi-tech-tural grade shingles"
Thanks, as an ex-roofer I sometimes forget that I don't know everything... Whew! that was tough to say.
Found some examples at HammerZone.com
sometimes board sometimes knot