First of all I’d like to say that I am new to this forum but have been a subscriber to the magazine for about 6 months and just love it. I decided to tackle doing a 1300 sq. ft. addition on our home myself to save $$ and I have to say that I am quite pleased with the results. I have done about 75% of the work, subbing out only the foundation/masonry work and the plumbing…..which leads to my problem. We decided to use a glass block shower and purchased a neo-angle kit from Pittsburg Corning which comes complete with the shower base, which the plumbers installed. I have installed the sheetrock and cultured marble on the inside walls of the shower and and am preparing to install the glass block for the outside shower walls. In reading the installation instructions, it seems that the first part of installing the shower base is to “Apply mortar on the sub floor 2″ thick in a 12″ x 12″ grid pattern the full length and width of the shower base for bottom support”. Turns out, my plumber did not do this. I am panicking as to what to do, now that the base/walls are installed to a point that to take them back out would be a MAJOR feat.
Does anyone have a suggestion of what I can do to provide the support needed without removing the base? I have access to the underside of the base on the two long sides of it by going through the adjacent rooms if I cut out the sheetrock. However, there is only about 2″ clearance between the shower base and the subfloor, so it is nearly impossible to get mortar in there. I was thinking along the lines of something I could “pump” in there that would harden (like construction adhesive) or maybe even expanding foam (i.e. great stuff) but worry about it expanding too much.
I am totally open to any and all suggestions to avoid having to rip out the whole thing….which would be UGLY. PLEASE HELP!!!!
THANKS!!!!!!!!!
Replies
rookie. Most of the fibreglass/acrylic showers and or bases I've put in are supported good along the curb and at the back/sides. Your neo angle should be the same, they're built pretty solid along the perimeter, just not in the middle where the drain falls. If you can access the area that surrounds the drain, I think you could cramb rigid foam in there (what will fit and you can get in) in lieu of sprayfoam or mortar. This would support the drain area, what's left to the sides and curb? I would think you'd be ok, provided the base is hefty, only you can decide.
If you foam it, maybe put a damn around as far as you can reach, so it doesn't take a zillion cans to fill it.
Tell your plumber no matter how smart you think you are, it never hurts to read the instructions at least once.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
I feel your pain. The mortar/under makes for a good job. I advise NO spray foam (those worrysome fumz plus no support). I think you can fairly easily do this (realize there is not a need for perfection in your mortar - support - retro. It is probably already pretty strong, so what you do will really help.
Here's what I would consider trying: Get a mortar bag (about 2-3$) and a 2 ft length of garden hose or a short length of 1 1/2 PVC from your plumber). Do your impression of a good overkill electrical tape job (with hose clamp?) - bag to funnel - into hose.
This is a critical part of this experiment: you can use the Sacrete Mortar Mix, except for it to work well through the mortar bag you need to mix in a scoop of lime (before adding water). And from the sound of things on this forum you should also add a little (1 oz?) soap. If you don't add the lime - expect the mortar to "compact" and plug up at the entrance to the pipe rather than flow under the shower base.
The next thing is of course the right consistence of mix, fill and twist the bag, and you know the rest.
I agre in principal with Da Fonz ... use a mortar mix that is thin enough to be squirted under the pan with a grout bag. You might have to essentially fill the entire area in order to get the mortar high enough to support the pan.
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
No problem Rookie.
If you really want that 2"s of mud bad enough, go underneath, cut out the 2x10 joists from under the base.....header the joists off properly....then reinstall 2x8's in the boxed out area under the base...before you slide the new floor system up under the base put a nice thick layer of mud on it...raise up to desired height and nail in the entire contraption with some good thick nails.
Don't use the shower till the mud sets...
I'll come over and get that done for you for a little under 4k.
You don't want bridging do you?
blue
Be cautious when taking any advice from me. Although I have a lifetime of framing experience, some of it is viewed as boogerin and not consistent with views of those who prefer to overbuild everything...including their own egos!
"I have installed the sheetrock and cultured marble on the inside walls of the shower..."
Ain't that a no-no?
Todd
Contact the manufacturer. Find out if construction adhesive is compatible with the shower base. You could carefully drill a series of holes below the pan and inject enough construction adhesive to provide support. It seems to me that if the adhesive will not dissolve the pan when used in large quantities, it will have as much strength as a mortar mix bed. I didn't get the size of the pan; however, it should take no more than ten tubes of adhesive to do the job. Keep fire away.
Also, don't do more until you are sure of the consequences. Decide how much it will cost you in materials to start over on the shower. If you can get over that, it will probably not be that much work. Your plumber should be willing to redo correctly at no cost to you.
Edited 11/1/2004 9:38 am ET by Les
The big picture problem is that the mortar is there to help support the pan. If the pan shgould fail, and you file a warranty claim with the mfgr, they will void the wearranty if they find it was not installed properly.
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt