I had a cheap corner shower kit installed about 4 years ago. From the get go, the water never completed drained out after using the shower which I thought was the result of getting what I paid for. Only later did I realize the problem was the drain pipe was too high causing the drain to be raised slightly higher than normal. Recently, I have discovered evidence that the drain is leaking probably around the shower base/drain flange connection. Which is probably because of the weight placed on the base while the drain pipe holds the drain just a tad high.
Is there a way to repair this problem without pulling up the base, which requires the wall panels to be removed, which requires the glass walls and doors to be removed, etc. etc? I fear there is no way around it, anyone have a trick for this sort of problem?
Thanks
Replies
Can you get access from below the floor?
Al Mollitor, Sharon MA
No access from below, it is slab on grade.
Try attacking the problem from underneath. If you above a basement or crawl it will not be too difficult. Even if the bath is above a finished room I believe I’d rather do drywall repair in a ceiling than rip out that shower and re-install it.
Edited 11/30/2004 9:01 am ET by Scott R.
Do it right this time.
Dd you not learn anything by this money saving installation?
Start by doing a thorough fix.
You'll be glad that you did.
Been there, done that.
And, you may have to use the "string" trick to d othe trimming.
Cheap cotton twine is actually best for this--synthetics can melt to the pvc. Take a loop around the PVC where it wants needs be cut. Pull the string back and forth at that point. The string will heat by friction and start cutting the plastic pipe. This can be significantly easier than trying to raise the pipe up to trim it with a saw. "Picture hanging" wire (amazing the things a person can buy at Safeway or Wallyworld at 2330 on a Sunday) will also work in a pinch.
Now, I've also heard of using a slotting bit in a router--so the base rides on the end of the pipe for a uniform trim. But I have never tried it. Never had those things around.
Rotary tool (Dremel) with a cutting disk works great for cutting installed PVC drains. Even a sanding/grinding disk if it is PVC.
Don't these bases use a forced fit rubber gasket to the waste??
So your plumber left the waste pipe to long, high?? and it's leaking into the dirt beneath the slab??
Get and inside pipe cutter for pvc and a new grommet gasket.
Or tear the whole thing out.
I think I understand what you are saying?
Eric
I Love A Hand That Meets My Own,
With A Hold That Causes Some Sensation.
>>Which is probably because of the weight placed on the base while the drain pipe holds the drain just a tad high.
huh?
I Love A Hand That Meets My Own,
With A Hold That Causes Some Sensation.
You've got to research how the drain is connected. (Snap out the drain screen to see.) With many units you fit the pan down over the drain pipe, and then force a rubber gasket into the gap between pipe and the drain hole molded into the pan. If this is the case then likely the problem is that the slab under the pan isn't level or has a high spot right around the drain, and the bottom of the pan is resting on that.
Other pans use other schemes, so pull the screen and try to figure out which scheme you have.
hooking a battery up to a piece of 0.040 SS safety wire
Back to things I can (remember) to get at the store--often out of my hometown, far far far away--at 3 minutes after close on Sunday night . . . <g>
Take apart an old "radiant" electric heater and use some of the nichrome wire from there.
We called it Lockwire on the sub and we had a special plier tool that would lock on two pieces, then you pulled a knob attached to a corkscrew shaft that spun the thing around, twisting the wire until tight. Used to have our lockwire inspected by Naval Reactor inspectors during Reactor Safeguard Exams. Never could see the point, but maybe they were looking for deeper trends...