I’m replacing an old fiberglass shower stall with a tile stall and need to pitch the floor towards the drain before installing the membrane. The stall is already roughed in with 2×4’s and sits on the basement concrete floor. Can I just build the slope with mortar mix right on top of the existing concrete?
thanks
Replies
Re. Gaging the floor
Thats how I do it.
Dry mix.
Have not had a problem yet but I dont do that many.
On wood, I use felt and wire.
Hold on there. I take this is you first tiled shower? There is an easier way, way easier than the route you are planning.
Check into Schlueter. They have preformed foam pans that you can modify to fit almost any size shower, water proof systems, curbs and drains. Complete kits are available for pretty much any size shower, average 4-500 dollars and are avail. on line. It takes about a day to get a shower ready for tiling with this kit.
http://www.tileprotection.com/home.php
The kit comes with an installation dvd that is extremely helpful.
For everything you need to know about tile and showers see the forum at http://www.johnbridge.com
Amen on John Bridge.
Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood
Schlueter this, Schlueter that, here a Schlueter, there a Schlueter, everywhere a Schlueter ... Schlueter, Schlueter, Schlueter .. is it just me, or is this stuff way too overpriced and low tech to be worth it .. what's wrong with a membrane and mud base ..
One overall advantage to Schluter is that you can be tiling right away, and not way for the pre-pan to cure.Not that there is anything wrong with membrane and mud base, but I would still put the ditra on the walls.
One thing I still can't grasp is this Kerdi system for the entire wall area. It has been my experience that unless the tile job (shower or tub surround) is really OLD and uncared for, maintained, the most failure I encounter is 1-3 coarses up. To do 6-8 feet up with that membrane system, well I don't know............
One thing I still can't grasp is this Kerdi system for the entire wall area.
I've noticed around here that some of the tile setters are using Kerdi on the pan but then switching to some sort of black substance(thick liquid like) applied over durock board. They say that the kerdi is to expensive and that this stuff will do the same thing. I have to do a little more research to see if its really as good, I have three showers to put in my house and I dont like the idea of buying all that Kerdi.
Doug
Ditto.
Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
Get the europeans involved and prices always go up. They produce great stuff and pay attention to quality, but sometimes you have to wonder.
Brad
I know I wonder. The oatey membrane worked fine for me when I built my first one. I really didn't know what I was doing but it never leaked. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
off subject a little but i have 4-5 5gal cans of a bostic? product that is a liquid membrane... from the instructions it's all you need... anyone ever used it? says it fine for tubs pools ponds showers ect...?
p
the trick with mud jobs is a perfect 1/4" every 12" sloop.
a. find where the floor is going to meet the wall.
b. draw your level lines on the walls. take your time, take your time.
c. make 12-16 tapered sticks from 1/2" ply. Easier to cut from a large panel.
starting from 1/2" to the level ine.
d. poor the mud and use the sticks to guide your trowel.
e. after 1/2" hour, remove the sticks and fill the voids.
now you have a perfeclty slooped and leveled mud job hat makes the installation of the floor and wall tiles very easy.
to keep the tapered strips ( guides) in place, start from under the flunge and finish under a 1x4 thats screwed 1/16" above the level line ( perimeter)
g. the floor guy.