I’m using hardi backer 5 feet up from the tub and have always used green board from the top of the hardibacker to the ceiling. I tile the hardibacker and I joint compound and paint the greenboard. I was wondering what others did from the hardibacker point on up? I could blueboard and plaster but I was wondering if others had other solutions? Thanks
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Only thing I would do is use quickset mud and fiber tape to join the two. If you use regualr drywall mud at the joint it wont be water resistant .
But then you could take it to the ceiling and finish it and paint it joined to the drywall anywhere using the same .
Tim
I do the same thing, but on the greenboard I'm skimcoating with something like D-mix. It's got setting joint compound, water, PVA primer, and plaster of paris in it. roller it on, trowel it, and it sets up hard and looks like plaster. I'm not too worried about moisture with it.
It covers up a lot of my taping and mudding shortfalls, which is a very good thing.
zak
Hey zak,
Thanks for the reply. where do you get this D-mix? I've done the greenboard and joint compound thing but I was hoping there was something better out there.
D-mix has been the subject of many discussions/debates. Use the search or check this current thread: http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=68666.5
like wrudinger said, it's been a hot topic on breaktime for several years. search it out, and then give it a try on some scrap drywall.
Dino's recipe uses all purpose joint compound and just a little bit of plaster, but I like mine to set up harder, more like plaster, so I use durabond or similar J.C., and quite a bit of POP.
zak
Not sure if you are tiling to the ceiling???
Sure, durock either 3 or 5 ft high, I use denshield on up if tiling to the ceiling.
If you are not tiling the whole shebang then at least use blue board and durabond.
Eric
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It's Never Too Late To Become What You Might Have Been
I usually use 1/2" or 5/8" Durock at the bottom and finish w/ the same thickness of greenboard at the top. Most moisture problems generally occur at the bottom 3 feet of the tub/shower area. If you are going to install a recessed shampoo niche on any wall, I would recommend using a cementitious material on that wall. If you are doing a steam shower, you have to Durock all walls and ceiling. Don't forget to taper the ceiling! However, since most my clients are "high end", they appreciate cementitious backerboard in entirety.
Yeah i go cement board all the way up even if the tile does not go to the ceiling. The area above the tile is vulnerable to water if its not tiled. Every time I rip out a plastic surround, the wall is bad above the surround. I would recommend tile to the ceiling, as alot of water gets splashed up there.
In my recent bathroom shower project, I went floor to ceiling with cement backerboard. The tiles go up six feet, and above that I skim-coated with setting-type joint compound.
One advantage I found was not needing to predetermine the exact location of the top edge of tiles. I applied the joint compound, prior to tiling, down to a height somewhat above the final location. Then I finished the last bit after the tiles were installed.
I like the look of a decorative tile cap, with smooth, painted walls above. Especially when using darker tiles. Photo attached below.
Allen
That's very nice looking.
How did you return the coping on the shelf ledge?[email protected]
It's Never Too Late To Become What You Might Have Been
Eric, the "coping" was made for edging a countertop, and I used the available outside corner pieces for the returns. I had to saw the backside to a different angle to faciliate this application, but that wasn't too difficult.
Allen
Edited 1/28/2006 6:28 pm ET by WNYguy
Well, I can't see it up close but it looks nice for a DIY job.
Your profile says graphic design, so I am assuming it was DIY.
Not exactly what I picture most of the time when I read about people trying their hand at what I get paid to do.
You are likely a better tile guy than I am a graphic designer. Good for you.
What else do you have to share with us?
eric[email protected]
It's Never Too Late To Become What You Might Have Been
Hi EricI am also a DIY and have a question I can't get a clear answer on in my research. Doing a shower stall with a soffit above. The ceiling has durock and the soffit wall is greenboard. I'm pretty sure I put thinset in this joint and fiberglass tape, not plastic cornerbead. Am I correct? I plan on putting corner tile here. Also is self-adhesive fiberglass tape ok, I have both, non adhesive as well.
If I read you correctly, it sounds like you have a dropped ceiling in the shower, and you are asking about the corner where the horizontal suface of the dropped shower ceiling meets the vertical face of this sophitt on it's way up to the bathroom ceiling.
Is this correct?
E[email protected]
It's Never Too Late To Become What You Might Have Been
Hi Eric,Thats correct.
Kevin
View Image
I am also a DIY and have a question I can't get a clear answer on in my research. Doing a shower stall with a soffit above. The ceiling has durock and the soffit wall is greenboard. I'm pretty sure I put thinset in this joint and fiberglass tape, not plastic cornerbead. Am I correct?
So this is an outside corner.
I plan on putting corner tile here.
If you plan on tiling both the ceiling and face of the sophit, I perhaps would not tape it or bead it at all. Cut it nice and clean and square and thinset the tile to it. Reinforcing tape would be a good idea here though. If you are not tiling the face, then I would cornerbead it, metal or plastic and use thinset below and a setting type compound on the vertical face. Durabond or the like.
Also is self-adhesive fiberglass tape ok, I have both, non adhesive as well.
There is a special heavy duty tape for thinset and tiling. It is usually blue. Any tile or stone jobber should stock it, I think HD does by me. If not any fibre tape will do.
Hope this helps.
[email protected]
It's Never Too Late To Become What You Might Have Been
Edited 1/29/2006 8:09 am ET by EricPaulson
Thanks Eric, I'll be painting the vertical surface so I'll use corner bead.
Eric,
I don't mean to hijack, but since you asked, yes, that was DIY. Thanks for the comment; that was my first and probably last tile job. It took a long time (that's the luxury of DIY!), but I was pleased with the results. The faux "rough-cut" style of the tiles allowed a less-than-perfect installation to still look OK, I think.
Previously, there was no bathroom on the second floor or this house (c. 1838). The only bathroom was off the kitchen at the far end of the north wing.
You asked about other things I could share. If you're interested, in the Photo Gallery section I've previously posted photos of the bathroom and some of my other projects:
Bathroom: http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=66931.1
Porches: http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=67082.1
Windows (my old moniker "GreekRevivalGuy"): http://forums.taunton.com/n/mb/message.asp?webtag=tp-breaktime&msg=53734.48
Masonry and other projects at this house: http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=67119.1
A small stone smokehouse built in 1992: http://forums.taunton.com/tp-breaktime/messages?msg=67119.35
Allen
Edited 1/30/2006 2:26 am ET by WNYguy
Thanks,
I remember most of those threads.
Your work does not typify DIY. Very well done!
Eric[email protected]
It's Never Too Late To Become What You Might Have Been