I’m stuck. I am soldering all of the copper for a small bathroom in a new addition. Being an extra bathroom I wasn’t in any hurry to finish it so I haven’t decided if I want to tile the shower or just get one of those 3 piece showers with the doors, etc. But I need to finish the copper so I can get the inspection and insulate and cover the walls.
So my problem is figuring the depth of the shower valve which is dependent on the finished shower walls. Seems like a catch-22. Do you pros always know the finished wall of the shower or are there some tricks that allow you to set the valve and adjust later for the finish?
I will need to decide on the shower so if you have reasons to go a certian way I would appreciatte it. Plus any tips on installing the shower.
Thanks,
Steve
Replies
one of the tricks is knowing what your putting in, around here you need water in the pan, for inspections, that means either the liner for tile, or shower pan installed.
lot of times, I put in blocking for shower valves and shower heads, never had to do it, exept that if you needed to go 1/4" either way, you could probably loosen the blocking, and make your adjustment, then refasten it.
listening for the secret.......searching for the sound...
My valves that I install have a threaded section that brings the splined portion in and out by about 1/2" either way.
Personally, I like to have the shower pan issue put to bed before rough out because the two are inter-related. A pre-fab shower by the way doesn't need the rough out at a high elevation nor a 2 part clamping drain. A real shower of course, needs the two part clamping drain.
If you want your cake and eat it too, just plan on a CBU wall covering, and if necessary the fiberglass won't take that much space. Or do the rough out and change it out later. You will probably have to re-sweat the valve mixer. Easier to cut it and reduce the space than add space I guess.
Boris
"Sir, I may be drunk, but you're crazy, and I'll be sober tomorrow" -- WC Fields, "Its a Gift" 1927