Grant,
My sister hosted Easter dinner today and this job is only a few miles away so I drove over to see it.
They’re not quite ready for copper yet , but it was good to get a feel for what I’ll need.
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You could have pulled that plastic off so we could get a better look. hehe..
Looks like fun. I'll be watching for it.
~ Ted W ~
Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.net
See my work - TedsCarpentry.com
That will be one I'll practice on so I might not be so forthcoming with pictures !
Naw , I'll do a decent job , so I'll probably post some.
That will be one I'll practice on so I might not be so forthcoming with pictures !
You can fix anything in a few minutes with Photoshop =D~ Ted W ~
Cheap Tools! - MyToolbox.netMeet me at House & Builder!
I just use the downspout crimpers on the DE face, yeah, it gets crinkled, but looks better than snipped.
You doing flat seam or standing ribs?
I know, you just want the new tools tho..LOL
A shrinker/stretcher isn't an expensive tool.. not the manual one I have.. there are even pneumatic ones that take the physical labor out of it and they aren't terribly expensive either..
Oh the big cast iron metal workers are plenty expensive.. even used not to mention you'd need a a really big truck to haul them around..
Edited 4/12/2009 9:29 pm ET by frenchy
Mr. Mellow,
I've snipped and crimped and am not totally pleased with either so with Grants tutelage I'll get a set of those and maybe a Wuko bender too.
If it expands what you're able to do you'll be suited for more jobs -- is the theory at least.
Any word on doghouse deliverance ??
Edit to include it's a flat locked soldered seam job.
Edited 4/13/2009 4:44 am ET by theslateman
I've snipped and crimped and am not totally pleased with either
Walter - the shrinker does basically the same thing as crimpers - it folds the metal back on itself. The ripple looks a little different, but it's easier (for me at least) to get a more uniform pattern with the ds crimpers. http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
I've seen that the 3 jaw DS crimpers make a difference Vs.the 5 jaw. The 3's I have I modified the amount they can close, by trimming the ears on the handles that bump each other, and can get a more extreme crimp. Its almost too pronounced for DE unless its a real tight radius needed.
The 5's give a smoother look being as the crimps are closer together and not as deformed.Just sayin.Hey, I'm fixing to get a bench top planisher, that'll wake the neigbors.
Here's some product:
View Image
The top piece is a piece of drip edge, radiused with crimpers.
Middle piece is a window head flashing, done with the shrinker.
Bottom is an "ell" done with the stretcher. With this piece I was trying to see how tall of a flange I could stretch. About 2 1/4" was the answer.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
Thanks Grant,
Now I'm back on the fence again !!
I also don't see how you could make radiused drip edge with that Wuko tool.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
Grant,
The wuko would be good for the rear bend as it goes up the 12 / 12 would it not.
Thought on the front I'd just use a 1" x 1" right angle and shrink it to fit the radius -- then pin it with 1" copper nails to the fascia.
then pin it with 1" copper nails to the fascia.
Boy, oh boy. You'd get yer peepee whacked fer face nailing working for me.
I'd rather have the symetrically spaced shrink marks than face nails. A lot of the trim rot we encounter can be attributed to face nailing metal. CDA and SMACNA both say "NO" to face nailing.
How far do you turn up the wall at the back? http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
LOL..I was waiting for that.(Signs for you Wednesday AM)
I should have the go ahead on 2 more cupolas tomorrow.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
Excellent news.I'll be at B-boro Wed. so I'll come up early in the AM. ( don't forget that downspout is whacked).
Grant,
There's very little water coming off that front curved area its mostly coming down the sides , so my thought was it wasn't crucial there , but I get your point . The sides are short , but they would get traditional DE .
The back has to go up the 12 / 12 by 10 " .
The back has to go up the 12 / 12 by 10 " .
I didn't look closely enough - I thought it hit the wall.
I dont think you can bend that valley into the pans with the Wuko or any other tool I've seen. You're working on two axes and the entire 10" would have to stretch.
http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
I'll see if can find valley pics of Lotts or Funny farm , both were slate and maybe Walter can see how we segmented them, unless you can Sketchup a view.
I just re-visited the Wuko videos. The hand tool won't shrink or stretch. It will bend a flange around a curve that you have cut into your metal.
I don't see anything on this particular roof that you could accomplish with it.
http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
Grant ,
Thanks for taking time to give me guidance for this project .
I'll take some scrap and try the crimpers and prolly use that technique for the front.
I thought I'd turn up the 10" on the curved back with the Wuko , but still have to cut , add , and solder it, at a yet to be determined number of spots.
Walter
I thought I'd turn up the 10" on the curved back with the Wuko , but still have to cut , add , and solder it, at a yet to be determined number of spots.
Well, I'll be interested to see what your up to. I'd like to have one of those Wukos, but I can't get my tiny brain around how it might do anything but make it harder to do this roof. Keep me posted and I hope you prove me wrong so I can justify buying one.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
Grant,
I'm not exactly sure exactly how it will play out , but with bull strength and awkwardness I'm sure I'll do a nice job.
I'll be posting in a couple of weeks perhaps . Going to Vinalhaven to put Grace Ultra on that tower I showed you a bit ago on Monday - then back up river to lay slates.
Thanks again. I won't FIU
Grant ,
Link here to Wuko demo video showing just what it is I'll be performing in Belfast.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XreU498rZ-M
Grant ,
The Wuko's have landed !
Well - let's see what they can do.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
I'm gonna shock an amaze ya baby !!!
Kewl.http://www.quittintime.com/ View Image
Walter
I see the builders have not read the lastest memo from Grace on the best practice for installing windows and window tape.
The bottom flange should be showing, and the Grace should be under the flange and on the window sill creating a pan.
Always somebody out there wantng to nitpick a picture on BT.
Rich
Rich,
I didn't look at those and might have made the same mistake. I don't think I've put any sidewall windows in in at least 10 years.
I did give the roof a good visual though !!
Walter
Walter
9 out of 10 are still being done the old way.
Here is what the sill should look like, before the window is installed.
The flange goes over the flex wrap.
On the top the housewrap should go ever the flange.
Rich
View Image