I searched the archives for this particular question but could not find it. I am siding my house with fiber-cement individual shingles. I’ve run into something that is done on 80% of houses and am not sure the best way to approach it. Basically, when a roofline runs into a sidewall, I’m curious as to how the connection of the edge of the roofline meets the siding without having water run down the step flashing and go behind the siding. I’ve attached two pictures, one is a close-up and one shows the area in a wider view. I think the copper step-flashing needs to be bent-out around the siding shingle that is going to be flush with the eave fascia.
Trying to visualize the water here. I know this has to be a common practice but I’m at a loss. Any help would be appreciated.
Feel free to make your jokes about the upside-down tyvek.
Replies
mojo... you need to make a small kicker flash.. like a deformed step flash...
since your stepflashing is copper.. use soft rolled...
the top will go behind the upper stepflash.. and over the old siding..
think like water.. you have to move the water rolling down the roof out and away from your lower sidewall..
the kick flash is not very big.. almost on the size of one or two thumbs
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Mike, instead of a kicker, I always use a flat piece of copper (or whatever) behind the bottom piece of stepflashing, so it's covered by the next course of siding. Water will get behind the one course of siding, but is immediately re-directed back out. What do you think of that approach?
Mike
better than the simple notch that turns into a funnel..
i try to design my way out of the situation before it gets to that point.. you know.. like pulling the fascia away enough to run the shingles up behind it ..
the only problem i see with running behind the one shingle is that shingle is gonna get wet EVERY time it rains... can't possibly last.. but.. it's a shingle..
most of the bad solutions actually dump water behind the siding completely..
i know what you're saying .. the flashing BEHIND the shingle looks more pleasing..
the kicker flash is hard to make look elegant.. but a year from now .. which one will look better?
i guess it's the same with my thinking about sidewall shingles comming down over the step flashing... we hold it up 3/4 inch.. some don't like the appearance. so they bring the sidewall shingles right to the roof..
a year later.. after they've been wicking water for a year.. the sidewall shingles look like crap for about a foot above the step flashed areas
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hard to tell here... but maybe the sidewall shingles go behind the step flash ..
so.. the next course is going to be about even with the roof edge.. a good place for that kicker flash
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Edited 5/14/2005 1:15 pm ET by Mike Smith
Mike and Mike,
Thanks for the input. I've attached some pics of what I've done so far. I tucked the first course behind the step flashing, adding a piece of copper to catch any water that might run high against the wall and then scribed the next course of siding against the roofing shingle overhang. I can still add a kicker once the last course is applied. I'm comfortable that no water is going to get behind the siding.
Thanks again,
Jonathan
Take a look at the kickout flashing in in the close up in "step 2" athttp://www.housingzone.com/topics/pb/build/pb03ga007.asp
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Sojourners: Christians for Justice and Peace
It seems to me that you're directing water right into the joint between shingle and fascia. It would be better to first run a piece of flashing up under the drip edge lower lip, then wrap it around to the wall, then have your flashing "drip" onto that.Also, a kickout as described elsewhere will channel most of the water away from this vulnerable joint.
Jonathan, that's the way I do it, but Mike Smith is right about the shingle on the flashing taking some abuse.
Also, make sure you do what Mike suggests about keeping the rake shingles 3/4" off the roof shingles. Especially with copper step flashing, it will look fine and won't wick water. Shiny aluminum step flashing looks bad if exposed, which is why I never use it.
Mike
The shingle you show in photo 3 should be behind your lowest step flashing.
this photo...
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i think the next course is going to intersect right there.. and thats where i'd put the kickout...
anyways... i like the way you're keeping it 3/4 off the roof shingles..
and as mike maines says.. i hate the look of shiny aluminum mill finish flashing..
unless we're using copper, we always use colored coil stock.. typically ... BLACK.. sometimes brown.. or any color appropriate to the roof or sidingMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
On my rotten siding job I had to replace some roof sheathing, too.
This particular photo sequence was where the original roof was flashed, with 5x5 galv, but over the top of the existing cedar lap siding. Of course, the water got behind the surface flashing and took out the roof sheathing, the buried lap siding, the sidewall sheathing and some of the framing underneath. I had all the repairs done before I remembered I should be taking pics.
These pics show my attempt to keep this from happening again.
Peel and stick first, from the roof up the wall. All vertical corners. Another length of 5x5 galv flashing. The roof gets done at a later date and no one does step flashing in this neck of the woods, especially on a re-roof because they can't get behind the siding.
The roof just happens to stop right where the corner trim goes so a little creative kick flash bendout after the trim, with the trim held up at 1 3/4". The siding will be held up a full 2". JHardie likes it that way. Looks a little funny but keeps the siding from wicking up water. Flashing will blind you when the sun is just right but when the painter gets finished spraying it will be the same color as the siding.
House wrap goes on last, lapping the flashing and a strip of tape seals the vertical seam at the junction with the peel and stick.
I had thought about running a strip of peel and stick along the top edge of all the 5x5 flashing before lapping it with the housewrap. Anybody do that?
looks like that joint won't leak.. but
<<<no one does step flashing in this neck of the woods, especially on a re-roof because they can't get behind the siding.>>>
how do you get the water onto the top of the roofing so it will run out ?Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
A five gallon can of roofing cement is standard.
When the roofer gets to work he'll put down a 4 inch strip of bull and run his new underlayment over the flashing. Then he'll embed the shingles in the bull, too. On the eaves they might put the drip metal under the felt but a 4 inch strip of bull goes there, too, so...
Water isn't so much directed over the shingles as it is totally excluded. If you look up along the flashing lines on some jobs you can see a definite upward curve to the edge of the shingles caused by the thickness of the bull slathered on.
Then the next guy who has to reshingle gets to clean up the goo and do it all over again.