Hello,
What is the best caulk for around sink surrounds? I’m thinking latex acrylic caulk with silicone. For its durability, toolibility and flexibility.
I had a new vanity put in along with a new sink. The man who installed it caulked around the perimeter of the sink surround with silicone. Let’s just say he didn’t do a neat job. Now the only way to remove that silicone is to scrape it off. Which is more than likely going to chip or mark up the laminate top. not to mention the time it would take. Best to just buy a cut off piece of laminate.
1 other ? The brad nails the man used to install the window casing were too large. What size brads would you recommend for casings? 18 gauge??? In this case the casing is colonial pine 2 1/4″ I think. Stain grade. Is putty the best material to fill those holes left by the brad nailing gun?
Wanda
Edited 11/30/2008 6:09 pm by Wanda200
Replies
I always use silicone, but put the sil. down and then the sink.
You should be able to get it up without scraping laminate.
What do you mean they were too large? too fat? Did the wood split?
I generally leave the nail holes alone without putty in stain grade.
Hi Frammer,
The trimmer I had come in to take a look at the work that was done mentioned that the brads were a bit big. Said the guy who nailed in the casings should have used a smaller brad.
I will have to find you a picture of the bathroom sink and counter. The bead of silicone wasn't evenly applied and the guy didn't even brush off the wood dust on the counter before applying the silicone. Looks sloppy. A DIY would have done a better job.
Wanda
For casing, whether it will be stained or painted, I use 2 different size nails. 16 gauge for the outside (where it has to reach through the casing and the drywall) and 18 gauge for the inside (where it is nailed to the jamb).
These are finishing nails shot from a cordless or pneumatic nailer. I haven't heard them referred to as "brads" before.
"For casing, whether it will be stained or painted, I use 2 different size nails. 16 gauge for the outside (where it has to reach through the casing and the drywall) and 18 gauge for the inside (where it is nailed to the jamb)."Why use 16 ga for outside edges instead of longer 18ga brads?BruceT
I'll venture for him, if you and he don't mind.
18's on the thin profile, of casing will hide in the groove of casing, or not split the (uggh) thin edge of Ranch/clamshell trim.
I've had to make silk purses outta some dirty sow's ears, when doing fj trim, and if you hit a spot where the fj and your nail/brad marry..well, you'll find out what a cussin' bear it is to fix it..you cut new trim, or you think you can hide it with glue and tape..NADA..find new trim? NADA, don't do it to begin with? Now you are carpentering.
It's called "short grain" and every time you whack at it, with a nail or a punch to drive a nail, it'll blow.
The woodworker's secrets are knowing the wood, and paying attn to both the strngths, and it's weaknesses.
You can make a bridge with 18ga. brads, that will hold a train...it's just how ya use them.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
I think you misread my post to DonCanDo. I asked him why he uses 16ga on outer edges of casing instead of just using longer 18ga.I see no reason to use 16ga or 15ga on anything smaller than door jambs or brick mold - or maybe that railroad bridge you mentioned. BruceT
Boy, ain't I a Dikk?
Ok heres a "smiling fazes" My bad.. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cKnHn-A5TNQ&feature=relatedSpheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
I'm with you exactly. I've been putting up a lot of stuff with 2" 18ga..
Why use 16 ga for outside edges instead of longer 18ga brads?
Um... because that's the way I've always done it and I'm not about to change now and there's no point in discussing it any further :-)
But seriously, it just seemed to me that the longer 18 gauge finish nails may not stay straight as they go through all of those layers. I've never actually tried it and I probably should, but since I have both nailers on hand when I'm doing trim, it's easier to keep different length nails in each gun.
Phenoseal for the sink, it's white, deal with it. Little will show.
The trim needs to be stained and finished first, then a color wax crayon will fill the voids handily. Buff w/ a soft cloth.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
What's the matter with Translucent or Clear???? White ain't always right.........or even same color caulks by Mapei. It's tough to "Live with It" for l0-l5 yrs.
Phenoseal here comes in white, clear, & brown...I use a lot of clear. And, of course, the ol' wax crayon trick...
I've always just stocked the white, the smidgen of a line showing at the sink joint was mostly very small. Like nails and screws, I started keeping less on hand of the lesser used stuff..makes keeping track of things much easier.
I'm pretty well stocked on fastners in Stainless, and I find keeping non-stainless more expensive, than just sticking with the best. Too much loss and space taking, so I carry a few caulks that work in numerous situations, vs. one of each that winds up freezeing or hardening up.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
They kill Prophets, for Profits.
Yes, you have the pro method, & I have the old house, & the basement full of odds & ends that may come in handy someday...easy just to go down & grab the other tube...which is all dried up because it was 1999 when I started that job...Extremely lucky I'm not having to earn a living doing this...
Denatured alcohol will help get that silicon up a little bit. If you're reasonably careful, you shouldn't have any problem with scratching the laminate trying to get it up. It might take a while and be a tad tedious though.
FWIW, I hate silicone. It is way over used and not nearly as dependable as people think... it also presents too many potential problems later on like removeability and paintability... not to mention cleanup when first installed.
I refuse to accept that there are limitations to what we can accomplish. Pete Draganic
Take life as a test and shoot for a better score each day. Matt Garcia
Absolutely!
I do a lot of painting and I'm always surprised to see how many other contractors seem to be unaware that silicone is not paintable.
I just finished painting a customer's family room. We agreed that painting the dark stained, beat-up trim would be a big improvement, but my first brush stroke revealed the use of silicone caulk by the window installers. It was spread out and embedded into the jamb and casing. I stopped and sought the HO's input... replace the trim, paint it as best as possible (yuck) or leave it as is. We left it as is, but I still feel like it's a reflection on me when she shows her friends/neighbors her new paint job.
Use a heat gun or even a hair drier to soften the material up. A sgl. edge razor blade along with a SR knife, and a linoleum knife and you should have no problems.
Use a heat gun or even a hair drier to soften the material up. A sgl. edge razor blade along with a SR knife, and a linoleum knife and you should have no problems.
Hi guys,
Well, it seems my vanity is the least of my problems. The buggers have now dented my new drywall in all 3 bedrooms plus the drywall in the hall area. The dents in the hallway... How do you repair damaged wallpaper????? They even left tool marks all along the wall where they removed the upside down molding.. They just think they can haul it all down and just skim coat over the torn paper.
The only way I can explain dents in the wallpaper in the hall approx.8"down from the ceiling (crown removed) obviously they used a pry bar without using a knife underneath it. you can see by the indentation.
What Neanderthals! I don't think they have a cerebral cortex!
Wanda
Please, don't let them into your home again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Hi,
As far as I am concerned they are FIRED! Now to get in touch with the manager. I was expecting a call from the company but I guess they are avoiding me. Evasive is the word!
I'll have to give them a call tomorrow and ask to talk to the manager. Have him come in and have a look at the "demolition" I have a feeling he's not going to want to meet with me. .... but something has to be worked out.
Wanda
spray your silicone bead with windex before tooling, thats the secert!
HI,
ok I will give that a try. thanks for the tips.
Wanda