where can I find any tips on “silt fence installation” ?
I have a vacant lot 100×200 on a street, houses on both sides, woods at the back. The left and right sides (compared to the middle) at the rear of the lot are low, by about 6 inches on the left (arae 30×30) rear side and maybe 6 inches to a foot on the right rear side maybe 40x40ft.
I plan to have some dirt trucked in and spread and wonder if I nned one of the silt fences.
Any sites discuss this?
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There are a number of ways to mitigate storm runoff. Silt fencing is one, you might be able to find some info by searching for the State of Washington's Department of Ecology website for storm water control, runoff control, silt fencing, etc. If you are going to seed the area another approach might be to spread straw over it after seeding. It is up to local jurisdiction what is required. Around here we are seeing a lot more effort to establish and enforce controls.
The need them will be determined by your local AHJ. I'd hate to find out the hard way via fines for polluting a stream that I needed to install them before the last rain. Kinda hard to put them in post facto.
If you're so inclined there are Erosion Control companies that you can hire to do the work and they should bear some of the responsibility if there is a failure.
The best ones I've seen are set in a shallow trench a few inches deep and then backfilled with the dirt from the cut. Back up low spots with bales of straw. I've seen V shaped fences in ditches facing both ways (up stream and down stream) and not sure I can really tell the difference on their performances.
Is it the goal to have the bottom of the silt fence fabric folded toward the disturbed dirt side , and covered some? If the bottom is not tucked in or tucked under the water can just run under the fence??
That is pretty much what you want.
Suggest you buy it at an irragation supply house. the stakes are thicker and straighter than the junk you get at the big box store.. In either case buy some extra stakes to replace to ones you break or need to add. I use tie wire instead of staples to hold the fabric to the stake where it comes loose.
Here we are required to have the plastic fabric buried in the dirt 6". It doesn't need to be folded. If you are installing a few hundred feet and the dirt is hard, you might want to think about renting a motorized trencher. Use metal stakes. Here, wooden will only hold up a few months if that. Use cow wire as the backer for the black plastic fabric. It is rather time consuming to tie the wire to the black fabric so I'd recommend using the pre-made stuff. Here, farm supply places have the best prices. That silt fence that comes with the wooden stakes all ready to go is for light duty home owner use only. If you think there is gonna be a lot of runoff install a ~10' outlet section made of fine mesh hardware cloth with washed stone mounded up in front of it.
Over the years I have either installed or (mostly) had installed thousands of feet of silt fence - maybe even a few miles.
The attached pic shows both silt fence and tree protection fence.
Silt fence is very cheap but valuable insurance if you get a heavy rain after spreading new loose soil. It seems obvious- but be sure your crew installs fence with fabric on uphill side of stakes. Otherwise when the dirt hits -the staples won't hold. Put hay bales upstream of the fence in any valleys where run off is particularly fast. Bury the bottom of the fabric in a 6-8 in. trench with stakes leaning a bit uphill.
If the fence is going to be up for any length of time, or you have a steep slope, I suggest that you get the fence with the 2 x 3 steel "chicken wire" on the back. It's much stronger than just the fabric. This fence does not come with the stakes installed. We use the green metal stakes, and it holds up for well over a year. I think "White Cap" construction supply has a couple of locations in SC. They'd be a good source.
HV
Edited 2/11/2009 10:41 pm ET by harryvermehren