I’m in the Baltimore/Annapolis area and looking for what I thought would be a simple casing profile to find, but apparently not. It’s basically a 1×4 (3/4″ x3 1/2″) with a simple 1/4″ bead on one side. I think it might be original to colonial New England houses. Many big box stores and yards sell a base that looks similar, but it’s 9/16″ x 4 1/4″ – too thin and wide to be used as a casing. I’ve seen this profile used with and without a built up backband. Anyone have any suggestions, short of paying big bucks to have a small amount milled?
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You can mill this very easily with a router
Router table ----3/4 straight bit to put some relief on the back and 1/4 bead of your choice and you are on your way. Milled my own many times in older homes with a new window or door etc.
Usually butt the leg into the head and glued and pocket screwed and wrapped with backband .. Classic and WAY faster than trying to get it made.
Good luck Mike
thanks MitreMike. I've done it years ago and used biscuit jointer where the leg but the head. The GC has supplied the trim, so I have no records of width, etc. I just have memories a clean, simple end product. How wide a casing have you used? Got any pictures of some of your completed installations with backband? Can't find a whole lot online.
Wwilme---When I have gone sitemade I usually start with 3.5 and it winds up 3.25 once I clean up the edges. As for thickness most of the BB I have is set up for 3/4 and add about 7/8 to the over all width for a final around 4 and 1/8 or so. If you butt the head and legs then I precut my stock and mark the heads so I don't router the RO into the leg joint. I hold back about 1/4 inch and after it is assembled before I nail it up I round over the last little bit by hand. I to have used bisquits before I had my Pocket jig and now I clamp the two to my mitre station and lock it toghther with the screw. You can't use both systems because the bisquit is right where the screw is trying to bite.I don't have any pictures that detailed but I could draw something if need be.Another varation would be to use a head band of a different species and project it proud about a half inch and set the head casing on top of that . Some older homes have this with a 1x6 head piece with crown on top of that .....A real dirt catcher if you ask me. and beside it only works with taller ceilings. Hope all this helps....If you need more just let me know. Mike
Windsorone has the exact profile (http://www.windsorone.com)
If you've got a lot to make, and its going to be paint-grade,it might be worth your while to make the trim out of MDF. I just did some for my own house, in a profile similar to what you describe,and am very pleased with how it turned out.
Just be aware that its very dusty to cut and route. I used the light weight MDF so I didn't have a problem with it "volcanoing" when I nailed it. And for this aging body, the light weight is a bit easier to handle than the regular.