Sink drains seem to be my nemisis.
I was born in the sign of the water bearer, Aquarius, so why isn’t my plumbing karma reflective of that simple fact? I mean, everything liquid should flow well for me, no?
Maybe it’s more numerological. Bad things happen in threes. That’s what I’ve heard.
I’m on my third sink drain repair in the last few months and once again, it’s not going well. In this case it’s a vanity lav top replacement, using a pop-up drain that had never leaked when installed in the previous sink. BTW, I was the one who did the original installation back then.
Very odd arrangement, that drain. To me anyway. Why does it have large holes, midway down its length? That makes no sense to me. Why create an opportunity for a leak where the drain exits the sink?
I’m perplexed and befuddled (perhaps even verklemphed), not only by the apparently unnecessary holes but by my run of problems with sink drains.
Makes me grateful that no one steered me into the plumbing trade when I was young.
Replies
Large holes capture the water from the overflow. Try a good quality pipe dope on the threaded part below the holes and on the outside of the wedge rubber where it contacts the sink.
Good to know about the overflow thing. The previous lav had one. I just checed and this precast "marble" lav does not.
It was leaking around the wedge rubber, thanks for the correct term.
Which direction is that wedge supposed to go? I forgot to put it back on the drain right away, after taking it off the old lav, so I'm unsure whether the wedge goes up against the lav's outlet or the other way around. The size of the washer suggests that the wedge goes up, the flat side down against the washer and nut.
That's not critical at this point because I'm gonna go get a new pop-up drain anyway, one without the overflow holes in it. I'll assume that the new one will have a drawing and some instructions.
Thanks for your help.
Peter
>>I just checed and this precast "marble" lav does not.<<
AKA: The "Ahh, ha!" moment.
Generally, the wedge goes up toward the sink, so the flat side provides a place for the washer and nut to ride / tighten / compress the washer.
Read the new pop-up directions and check out any diagrams though.......
JTC's Axiom of Plumbing: "Every plumbing job, no matter how big or small, and regardless of how many fittings you already have in possession, WILL require a minimum of three (3) trips to the supply house."
Good luck!
JimNever underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
JTC's Axiom of Plumbing: "Every plumbing job, no matter how big or small, and regardless of how many fittings you already have in possession, WILL require a minimum of three (3) trips to the supply house."
That axiom had been proposed, accepted and reconfirmed long before you or I ever began trekking to the plumbing supply. Originally in Latin, it was carved in stone over the door of Larry and Joe's ancestors during the Roman Empire.
Edited 10/12/2009 1:18 pm by Hudson Valley Carpenter
I can believe that -- met a guy onest that had seen that stone on a trip to Italy!
Good luck at Larry & Joes, "Join our 2200th anniversary celebration this December!"
JimNever underestimate the value of a sharp pencil or good light.
What McPlumb said.
You are also using plumbers putty or other sealer under the visible flange which contacts the inside of the sink -- I thought so......
Or is your new sink one of the glitzy glass bowl type without any internal overflow passages?
Yes?, then you need a different style pop-up.
Jim
Edited 10/12/2009 7:46 am ET by JTC1
Or is your new sink one of the glitzy glass bowl type without any internal overflow passages?
Yes, it's a genuine (pronounced gen-you-ine) pre-cast marble lav-vanity top by Glacier Bay.
Yes?, then you need a different style pop-up.
Happy to hear that from two helpful initiates into the brotherhood of plumbing. I'll be even happier to have a pop-up drain without the holes and their potential to add another source of leaking.
BTW, I'm now friends with every counterman at Larry and Joe's plumbing supply. Nothing like a string of leaks to help one get acquainted with the whole gang, only half of whom know slightly more than I do about how to fit things up. At least they're honest enough to call one of the other guys when that happens. That'll keep me coming back.
BTW, did I start a thread yet on the corroded nipple next to the equally corroded gate valve on the main in front of the house? That was interesting, me running to the garage to get the big key for the street shut-off.
I didn't know until that big leak broke out, that the guts of the main's gate valve had a mineral build-up which would preclude it from closing...ever again. Oh well, the bird of paradise next to the main inlet got a real good soaking anyway.
Edited 10/12/2009 1:04 pm by Hudson Valley Carpenter
I thought vessel sinks without overflows could not have stoppers and had to be simple grates. I think it was to make sure that you couldn't have the stopper closed with the sink left on and water flowing over the top.At least, I think that's the code in Mass., but we have some interesting plumbing "rules" in this state. And in Cambridge, they actually check that faucets are Mass. certified, which leaves out almost every decent one with a copper finish; had to go with oil-rubbed bronze and eat the cost of an ebay purchase of an interesting design.---mike...
I thought vessel sinks without overflows could not have stoppers and had to be simple grates.
That makes sense. I'll ask about the CA code on that.
HVC,
I'm no plumber but I think you need a drain made for a no-overflow vessel sink...it's solid, no holes. Around here they are tough to find.
Todd
Thanks Todd, I'll be on my way to the plumbing supply in a few minutes.