The house I am currently remodeling has heavily textured plaster walls and ceilings, plus five decades of bad taste in paint. We are wanting to skim coat the texture and paint to a flat surface with mud. My question is: assuming a clean surface, will the mud stick or do I need to apply a bonder?
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personally i would scrape or clean any loose paint from the walls and ceiling then prime the entire area that you want to re-finish. then apply your mud to the existing walls.any cracks should be [v] grooved and mesh tape used .
mc
Out of curiosity, why would you prime first? Latex or oil? Any specific-use type of primer?
the type of primer would be determined by the the type of finish that is on the wall . so if there is a oil based paint use oil based primer. the same for latex. also primer will prep the old surface to except the new plaster or mud. keeping the surface the same in colour allows you to finish the entire surface more evenly. without shadows which will be there if shades of colour differ. the same apply's to the type of mud you use . i always finish plaster surfaces with the same product. i never change product between coats. reason bein is that this will give you shadows on the finish, and your skim coat will have lots of misses that your eye didn't see.
hope this will help with the project at hand .
also i'd like to add that make sure you have lots of light when finishing your wall surface.
good luck
mc
jl
I skimmed a 30's plaster wall, to repair some cracks. The skim which was done in durabond 90 the first couple coats, peeled after one season.
I then used Plasterweld, after scraping all the loose stuff off.
Skimmed as b/4.
It has held for 10 yrs.
Plasterweld or Bin
Another vote for PlasterWeld.
Or, as a second choice, BIN.
I have never regreted using either, but I am more partial to Bin as it is more readily available.
Terry
BIN is a great product for what it's intended for, which is to seal stains, but I haven't really found it to adhere to questionable (ie. glossy) surfaces much better than an acrylic primer.
When adhesion is in doubt, I use an oil based primer.
I must disagree
but I haven't really found it to adhere to questionable (ie. glossy) surfaces much better than an acrylic primer.
Actually I find BIN to be the ideal choice for glossy or questionable surfaces.
The first time I was told to use BIN was to paint over some glass panes in a factory prior to applying latex paint to block out some of the sun light. Worked there another 2 years - held on just fine through the Michigan winters with the temperture extremes on each side of the glass.
The only time Bin disappointed me was using it to prime a redwood sign. After just a few monthes the finish alligatored all the way the bare wood.
Terry