I am starting my own Hardi plank project tomorrow. 5/4 Meratec (sp?) trim.
Have two questions:
-I was planning on a 8″ water table to 1) add some protection to the siding and 2) add a little visual. Trade off is a little more labor
and $.
What’s your thoughts on that feature?
-Read instructions for the trim. The site shows the corner boards all the way down and the skirt board butting. I always though that the skirt run under the corners…less potential end grain wicking. Thoughts here, too?
Many thanks for your input.
Todd
Replies
What type of house is it?
In general, I prefer the look of a skirt board as opposed to the siding just sort of ending at the foundation.
I agree....corners should sit on top of skirt.
Be sure to flash where siding meets skirt. I often add a wood drip cap as well at this joint, however, cap runs to corners, not below.
My own home has a very tall, narrow profile. I ran a skirt along the bottom and frieze boards horizontally about half way up, and again at bottom of gable. Breaks the monotone of the siding up nicely, and visually shortens and widens the house.
J. D. Reynolds
Home Improvements
I added a skirt board around the perimeter of our place and flashed it with z metal. Wish I'd done a wooden drip cap--which I now see is the more classic detail.
I was after longevity with the metal but it really doesn't look good in places and y'know, there are plenty of homes around with that wood drip cap still in good shape after 80+ years.
I agree the corner boards should fall on the skirt, then your drip cap should but inside the corner boards.
Here's a shot of my house corner.
8" water table or skirt board- 5" corner boards- lead coated copper drip installed over wooden cap board
View Image
I've never had the chance to do much but repair or splice in skirt boards where necessary, but I think if I had the chance to do it on my own house I would use copper flashing at the transition between siding and skirt - I like the way it pops out and adds a bit of visual interest. I'd probably do copper head flashing over the windows as well.
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Geez, I really appreciate all the input.My house (I demolished to the ground and built back up) is kind of a basterd*zed custom neo-gothic. Am aware of the wood drip cap as opposed to metal but I am leaning toward #2--no need to be authentic, just weather tight. No piano here, functional. To hijack my own thread...When Andy C was still hanging around this board I bought one of his Max siding nailers. (Miss reading his posts BTW...who pizzed him off?).Anyway, had a heck of a time finding matching coil nails locally. Just drove 45 minutes to pick up a box of Sencos--2" HD ACQ gal. Sales guy says they will eventually bleed, need SS for sure. Course the price is 3x as much. Comments on that? I am starting on a big porch area with galvies but can switch to SS if that's best.Thanks again,
Todd
This may or may not pertain to your question.
The purpose here is to shed water. The drip cap is large so the corners in this case land on top.
When I used the old style wood drip cap with the lip on the back, I would run the "skirt" around as has been mentioned, but I also ran the drip around and under the corner boards. This keeps all portions of the bottom area beveled to shed water.
View Image
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Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
They make that drip cap in Azek now, Cal.
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No kidding, the old style with the lip on the back?
Clever those chinese.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
absolutely. No more of the wood ones for me
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
I prefer the beveled water table sitting on top of the 8" belt. It looks good and functions well as long as you get an adequate slope.
If you choose to use the metal drip, then I prefer to run the corner boards over the belt all the way to the bottom. I don't like the looks when they all converge flush, so I tend to co-ordinate all the elements and create depth at the joints when possible.
I usually rip a 1x3 (RS Spruce) on a 15 degree bevel if I choose the sloped detail. It's quick, easy, nails into the studs adequately with a 3" gun nail (that holds it tight enough till the caulking grabs it.) and the proportions work well.
Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
corner should land on top of the skirt
Welcome to the
Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
where ...
Excellence is its own reward!
here's a detail we used on a 1680 Clonial CApe
we used 6" Hardie laid with an exposure of 4" so it would look more like the original
in some sections the foundation was forward of the siding ( it stuck out )
we padded the shelf with 2x PT , covered that with 1x10 Miratech.. and used this watertable to cover the skirt
View Image
View Image
the watertable is 5/4 x 4 Miratech with a ripped edge
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Edited 1/4/2008 5:37 pm ET by MikeSmith
Edited 1/4/2008 5:38 pm ET by MikeSmith
Edited 1/4/2008 5:39 pm ET by MikeSmith
Edited 1/4/2008 5:40 pm ET by MikeSmith
Mike,
I might be wrong but I don't recall your most excellent photo posts
(##*%*) thread having a skirt board, what's up with that? Curious....Todd
i think the water table/ skirt board is from 2000 or so
here's our house.. circa 1985... all rough sawn cedar with Atlantic Cedar claps
View Image
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Edited 1/4/2008 7:37 pm ET by MikeSmith
Thanks man, amazing similarities.
and I'm a young guy.A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/