any suggestions on leveling a slanted small bathroom floor, sub fllor still good and its on the second floor , level best?
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How big is your bathroom? Also how out of level is it?
If it is not too large there are some relatively good self leveling products on the market. Kind of like a real thin concrete.....just to give you an idea as to what this product is.
Ebe
It's a bathroom.....It's slanted for drainage, drain @ the low spot!
Don't believe everything you read!!!!!
Mud the floor to bring it back to level. Minimum 3/4" to what ever you need.
I tend to shy away from self leveling products. ok for thick applications, but crack as it gets thinner. how far out of level is it? What are you applying over it?
plywood, probably 1/2 inch to possibly 3/4 inch off and there is no slant for floor drain. I can use the level best (quick fix) or rip up sub floor and level it with floor joist its going to cost more and I think the homeowner just wants it cheap .toss up
Quick fix is one of my favorites. laying it on thick though, especially under a fixture with a heavy psi load is not. I would reccomend stepping thin layers of plywood, can be difficult if out of level is puddled. Better if evenly gradual. Bigger problem is if doorway is the low spot, and of course if the toilet flange is in a very low spot it will have to be raised. I would at least check the stability of the substrate you put any filler over. If there's flex, not much of anything will stay.
My preferred method is to cut the subfloor out. Then sister in some 2X6s on your floor joists. You can bring the low part of the floor up to the highest part and make it perfectly level. I glue and screw them. Then just put a new subfloor in. Shim around the edges. If the toilet flange height is changed significantly, it is easy to cut it off and replace it when you have the old subfloor off.
I just did this yesterday. I used the Fein Multimaster to finish the cuts in the corners. Worked like a breeze.
I glue and screw the subfloor in place to prevent squeaks. While you're down there, replace the shutoffs with 1/4 turn ball valves. You'll be glad you did.
Thanks sounds good, hopefully I can get homeowner to spend the money instead of quick fix
You probably know this, but I will mention it just in case. If you use this method, you can only cut to the center of the joists closest to the walls, so this means not the entire floor will be replaced, but basically the central part will. As I mentioned, just shim the borders as required, hopefully very little.