Hi All,
I’m in the market for a top end, sliding compound miter saw for a one man band, finish carpentry business. I had pretty much settled on the Bosch 5412L, until the new issue of Fine Woodworking came. Makita has introduced a new saw that takes A 7 1/2″ blade and only weighs 27.6 pounds. (LS0714) Looks interesting. Anyone seen or used this thing yet? I’d appreciate any feedback.
Thanks,
Dan
Replies
I have a similar Dewalt, the 712 I think. Uses a 6-1/2" blade, cuts a 2x12 at 90*. made in Italy. Nice saw, well made. Light enough to easily carry around. I wish it had a little more vertical capacity ... I don't think it will cut a 2x4 standing up, cuz the blade nut hits the wood.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
I wouldn't get an 8" saw... got one myself 13 years ago that never gets used since I got a 10".
On Makita.....Can`t go wrong. Bought my 12" when they first introduced dual bevel.
7 1/2" might be small though.
I haven`t seen the new model, so I don`t know if they`ve designed it in a manner that gives a greater cutting capacity than a typical saw of that size.
EDITED TO ADD: Don`t let weight be the determining factor in your purchase.
Lemme get this straight....
YOU BANNED REZ?!?!
Holy bagels and lox Batman!
Edited 10/21/2005 9:18 am ET by JDRHI
The makita seems to have the best reputation, especially for trim. Go withat leeast a 10", but if I could do it again, I would have bought the twelve. There are just a few times when I wish for that bigger blade. However, 12" blades are more expensive to purchase and sharpen. You will regret that small saw, unless you use it as a backup for your real saw.
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People are entitled to their own opinions; People are not entitled to their own truth.
Jacob
Hitachi gets my vote---hands down
Love my Makita LS1013
I don't have any exp. with that saw, but can attest to the Freud 8.5 ( if they still make em)....trimmed about 30 homes still keeps ticking...lightweight, good reach, and accurate to 1/2 degree.
I paid 360 in '90.
I need new brushes, and a antichip plate, other than that...you can't beat it.
BTW, I have had the Hitachi 8.5, it is a real good saw..I own a Bosch 12" slider and a Delta (alum) 10" sidekick..they have thier places...
Think about blades and cost of them...all my shop tools are 10'' capable, the 12" Bosch is a critter on it's own..so the blades kinda hurt the wallet when they are saw specific. And. the 1'' arbor is a drag, even if I could sling that blade on my Radsaw or Tablesaw..washers are a pain in the butt to keep track of.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
"Its MINE, I'll wash it as fast as I want"
It's not too often that I need a 12" blade when doing trim - but when you need it, it sure is nice to have. I can't imagine using anything less than 10" for day to day use, and since I only have one SCMS, I am glad it is 12". A 6-7" blade? You can't even cut 3 1/4" trim on edge!
BTW, I own the Makita and have nothing but good experiences with it. The blade it came with is surprisingly good, too. Plus it came with a rebate for a free 12 volt impact driver.
go big, or go home. :-) i have a 12" Ridged SCMS, and its AMAZING. Its really well designed IMHO, and can cut a 13+" swath through pretty thick material. I've used it to trim the verticals on a 24" deep closet storage system i made. Full cut + 180 deg front to back flip, and you can trim through 24" of ply at 90". there have been times that i wished it was smaller (usually when i'm lugging it around to the back of the house to make some cuts, but its still worth every ounce.
-mike.
Go too big and you might as well stay home. Resist the size impulse. Most north americans seem genetically coded for it. Find someone who is selling the new Makita and have a good look at it in the flesh - see if you like it.
Trim work is a specialty in its own right, and mobility is a good thing - moving to a new room can save a lot of time in walking. A smaller, lighter saw that meets your capacity requirements can be a real asset if it's well designed. Bring a 12" De walt or Ridgid on site and you won't be moving anywhere in a hurry, those beasts are upwards of 80 lb. Ridgid especially seems to have adopted a deliberate 'bigger is better' styling policy. All their stuff looks bulky and awkward to me. Most of it functions well but it sure looks heavy.
The Makita 10" slider LS1013 is legendary for its toughness; if the new 7" saw is as rigid as claimed with its 4 slider bars, it might be just the thing. Blade selections will be broad and inexpensive, although there won't be any designed specifically for mitre saw right away. 10" still has the best choices and the most development in that regard.
I agree with your resist the impulse advice. My LS1013's capacity seldom lets me down in my reno biz - but I don't take on super tall trim work, or cut lots of big timbers.
90% rule is my personal philosophy: I look at each task, then spend on size or quality where it matters. Each tool must meet 100% of my needs for 90% of the jobs I expect to take on.
Tasks that require accuracy or involve heavy frequent loads are done with the best I can afford. An everyday workhorse like a circ saw, where ergonomics, power, accuracy and longevity matter, is where dough is spent. Same for the cordless driver.
Other tasks can be done with smaller sized tools of good quality. Infrequent tasks can be done with cheaper tools.
Where a task exceeds a tool's capacity, I either work slower, do it by hand, turn to the rental shop, or take a pass on the job.costofwar.com/
Wow! You just spelt out my own philosophy, although I never came up with 90% rule. The slight extra cutting capacity of a 12" saw is so infrequently needed (for me) that I choose to pass on the extra weight, bulk, and cost. The occasional finishing cut that needs to be made over a greater width can be done with a circ saw and straight edge or cutting guide.
Sometimes cheaper tools make sense if they're to be used infrequently or on lower accuracy applications. I bought two cheap no name laminate trimmers so I could leave the bits set up in them. The Freud bits literally cost more than the trimmers, but it sure is convenient not to have to change back and forth between flush trim bit and 15 degree laminate bit. For more exacting jobs I use my Makita trimmer or a full size router. If I was running as full time cabinetry operation, I wouldn't have wasted my time asnd money on these cheapies, but I expect they'll last me years at the rate I use them.
Your profile says you're in the BC Rockies. Whereabouts?Lignum est bonum.
"The slight extra cutting capacity of a 12" saw is so infrequently needed (for me) that I choose to pass on the extra weight, bulk, and cost."
It's a good rule of thumb that you expressed far more succinctly than I did. Thanks.
In the (snow)flaky Kootenays. I'll email you later.
costofwar.com/
Edited 10/24/2005 12:15 am ET by Pierre1
i'll second these sentiments. i have a 1013 as well, and it works beautifully. every time i lift it into the vehicle for transport i bless its light weight and easy carrying when compared with the 12" saws. the capacity difference is only 3/4" at best, and 12" blades have more runout and are more expensive.
personally, i'd go for a traditional 8 1/2" slider over makita's new 4 bar one--that just seems like more complexity than necessary. however, for just a little extra money and weight you can get a 10" saw and have the ability to cut 4X4s in one pass.
I've had a bit of a play with the 4 slider and would like to own it, nothing beats light weight. I've a 10" hitachi and as good as it is, I just don't like moving it.
My crews alter between the Makita 12" and the 10". Both are great saws. We keep the 10" on the crew with the most detailed trim as it is more acurate due to the smaller blade. Having a properly built saw table is as importaint as the saw.
Thanks everyone!
I'm not in a huge hurry to buy and all your input is most helpful. Weight is an issue as I no longer wear a younger man's clothes. However, I want a really acurrate tool. I don't expect to buy another one soon. My thinking was to get the saw that could do it all, but maybe I need to back off that idea. I have fit 4x12 rafters with a hand saw and belt sander in 15 degree weather, so maybe I ought to consider what 90 percent of my anticipated work will be, and go with something more reasonable, and tested.
Thanks for all the great advice!
Dan
Another saw to consider: I perseverated about a year before finally settling on the Dewalt 8-1/2 slider. I put a Forrest Chopmaster blade on it. Work smooth, very clean cuts. Weight was my primary concern. It folds up with the 42.5 pounds close to the body for carrying. The saw has a wide range of miter (60 degrees), as well as bevel stops.
Look at how you are going to use the saw.
Do you prefer to cut stock flat against the table, fence, for a combination of both (such as with crown moulding). Do you need the extra depth that a larger blade will allow? The compromise is that the larger blade will flex more and wont be as accurate when cutting angles and compound angles. I replaced my 12" dewalt with a 10" hitachi and the quality of the cuts went up considerably. I would consider getting an even smaller bladed saw.
What Hitachi Model are you using? My 12" Dewalt is out of whack and it will soon be the new boat anchor on our next duck hunt. Hitachi is comming out with some new models, that have more features than a Saturday matinee. I don't know if I need a digital readout to cut warped and twisted trim. Is there a blade brake on your saw? What brand and type of blade works best in your saw, ATB, No. of teeth. etc. Is the blade easy to change?
I have the 10" with the laser.
The laser can be extremely useful for line up odd angles. That being said, The laser is off about a 1/64th over the legnth of the travel. Not a big deal but off none the less. And it appears that everone has the problem. Also my laser stopped working after about 1 year. The replacement part is about $113.00. The new dewalt models have the right idea with the laser as a add on. If something does go wrong it's a 60 dollar bolt fix. The hitachi has an low fence on the right side of the table. There are fence extension available through mail order along with crown moulding stops. I got the saw because all the the good trim carpenters have used them for years. I am satisfied with accuracy of the saw. All the bells and whistles don't matter as long as my work is good. I hope that change the laser though.
I agree with matching your saw to your overall use. I have an 8-1/2 Freud, a 10" Bosch slider and a 12" DeWalt Chop. I have a DeWalt portable saw stand and brackets for the DeWalt and Bosch saws. For general framing, I use the DeWalt all day. For trim and general carpentry, the Bosch gets the nod. The Freud is mounted to a roll-around, folding wing workstation in my wood shop, mostly for stock sizing and trim work.
If I could only keep one saw, I'd keep the Bosch slider. So if you intend to use just one saw, I think the 10 inch is the best balance of cost, size and utility. I think the idea of a small, light slider is nice but it will be very limited. If you understand and accept that limitation, then you will be happy.
For instance, if your only need is to do interior trimming (sans large crown) and you don't want to lug a big saw.....
Dan, I would go with Makita I knowlots of folks with great Makita history. I agree with others that 7 1/2" is small unless all your work is small stuff like jewlery boxes and such. 10" should give good versatility. I am too looking into a compound miter saw and will go with Makita either 10" or 12". Goog luck, I do hear though that Hitachi is making good products.
Thanks everyone,
I bought the LS1013 and am very pleased with it. I appreciate all the feedback.
Dan