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Small Fixed Window Retrofit

spclark | Posted in Construction Techniques on September 11, 2015 10:27am

Honeydo list has installation of two small fixed ‘accent’ windows:

http://m.homedepot.com/p/–DF2626CRFTWHV1500BLKPAT/202694569

– recently added. I’m up for it but for one question:

Single-story conventional frame construction, studs 16″ o/c., locations require cutting one stud for each opening.

Confident that I can frame in r/o from the inside through a minimal-size opening in drywall, as there’s likely a roof rafter above the double plate under which one stud is to be cut what’re my options for what otherwise would be a doubled 2×6 header under the plate if I didn’t have drywall already on the inside?

At present I trust I can fit a couple of 2×4’s flat up against bottom plate, between intact studs on either side, toenailing & add support with a Simpson-style metal bracket at each end. Otherwise there’s no room to insert and position any 2x piece that’d be long enough to fit between those studs.

The rest is easy….

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  1. mark122 | Sep 11, 2015 07:00pm | #1

    with out any other information I would recommend you simply cut out more sheetrock, place a proper header and then replace the sheet rock. 

    1. User avater
      spclark | Sep 11, 2015 07:37pm | #2

      I'd agree 100%...

      ... if it weren't for the g#dawful textured wall finish this house came with.

      Never had to deal with this stuff before.

      I almost enjoy doing drywall but trying to match the texture of adjacent surfaces is a PITA I'd prefer to avoid if at all possible.

      Prospect of expaining to my wife just why it is I have to rip out ~60 sq. ft. of drywall in the living room to properly install the two windows she bought isn't too appealing either... yet I know that's the proper way to go about this.

      1. DanH | Sep 11, 2015 10:01pm | #3

        To install a new closet doorway with minimal drywall damage, I was able to make saw cuts through the drywall (used my circ saw**) to chop the studs above at the top of my to-be header.  Still required repairing the drywall, but not nearly as much.

        This isn't a solution to every problem of this sort, but might work for you.  (Every time I try to read your description I get dizzy.)

        (** Since I could work from both sides of the wall, I'm thinking (this was about 15 years ago) that I made a full depth 3+" inch cut from one side with my 7-1/4" saw, then completed the cut from the other side.  To do this from one side only I'm thinking you'd need an 8" saw or you'd have to be creative to cut through the last half inch or so.)

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