Thinking about soapstone countertops for a kitchen re-do. Opinions? How hard a material is it to work with? Don’t want granite or quartz, but might consider solid-surface.
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I think it makes beautiful counter tops, you can work it with regular carbide tip saws and bits.
Softer than granite or quartz so the chances of scratching is greater. More maintenance than the stone but I still like it more.
Doug
Karl,
I just finished up two bathroom remodels using soapstone counters. In the master bath we mounted an undermount Kohler sink. In the guest bath we fabricated a soapstone sink. This was all in anticipation of using soapstone for a kitchen remodel that we have not started.
It is heavy. I found it locally (southern California) and had the 8'x 6'x 1 1/8" slab sliced into manageable pieces so I could take it home. A 2'x6' section still weighs several hundred pounds, so be prepared to get help. We paid $19/sq ft. In our area granite runs $12/sq ft.
Cutting soapstone is as the web sites state. For end cuts, I used a 7" diamond blade on a skill saw. For the sink cutout, I found that a good carbide router bit works well. Faucet holes were cut with a bi-metal hole saw. When you are finished you can remove scratches with an orbital sander. Wet sanding produces the best result to hold down the dust. Wear a mask!
Building the sink was not that much more complicated. I sized and made the opening first. Then calculated the dimensions for the sink bottom and cut to size. A hole was drilled in the bottom and the sides sloped to encourage drainage. I did this with a air sander, although a small belt sander would also work. Using construction epoxy (Simpson) I glued the sides of the box to the top of the bottom piece. Use enough glue to assure that you obtain a water tight seal. Clamp and let this set up overnight. The next morning mix up some more epoxy and place the counter top on the sink. Sink sides can be matched to the top with additional sanding if required.
After it dries, you will want to get it installed, but I suggest testing it for leaks first. Before you oil the stone, install the sink drain and fill it up with the garden hose. Don't fret too much if you have a small leak. I found that wax (toilet bowl) works great if you force it into the seam with a plastic putty knife. You can also go around the outside seams with heavy 100% silicone as a secondary precaution. It will get a heavy coat of mineral oil in end.
Treat it like an expensive piece of wood and you will be satisfied with the results.
We are getting ready to build cabinets for our new 500 sqft kitchen addition. You can be sure that we will be using soapstone there as well.
In our area granite runs $12/sq ft. I assume that's a rough slab w/o fabrication? Around here they go for $50/sf cut to size with finished edges.
Did the sink have square sides? Your description was a little unclear.
Whenever you are asked if you can do a job, tell'em "Certainly, I can!" Then get busy and find out how to do it. T. Roosevelt
For aligning slabs, you can cut a slot with a biscuit joiner and epoxy in nickels as biscuits.
AndyArguing with a Breaktimer is like mud-wrestling a pig -- Sooner or later you find out the pig loves it.
"epoxy in nickels as biscuits." ???
Andy,
You might have to remove that gavel again, as I think that's against the law. LOL
Actually, in concept, it sounds like a great idea, though why not just use a good quality washer? Who uses cash these days anyways?
Jon
about nickles and washers,
I needed some SAE washers..they were .02 each..drilled some pennies..saved a cent on each..
I KNOW "TIME IS MONEY"..so is driving an hour for some washers, when I can drill two a minute.
I also belive that Andy's suggestion has merit in the fact that a washer of that thickness is not readily had, unless it's diameter would exceed that of the radius of a biscut cutter.
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Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
"about nickles and washers,"
Sphere,
Since you like to "friendly spar."
"I needed some SAE washers.."
What is an SAE washer? and don't just say it's a washer that conforms to one of many SAE specs.
"they were .02 each.."
EITHER they were pretty big, or........?
"drilled some pennies..saved a cent on each.."
Out here, penny sized washers go for about 0.2 cents, and nickle sized, 1 cent each. I just weighed out a pound, and was at F & F yesterday, and saw that bulk steel hardware (washers, screws etc) is up to $1.09/pound
"I KNOW "TIME IS MONEY"..so is driving an hour for some washers, when I can drill two a minute."
No arguments there, but ( to quote the "Wolf" from/in Pulp Fiction, "move outa' the stix") actually, from what you've said, it's gorgeous where you live, so like me, it's worth the sacrifice.
"I also belive that Andy's suggestion has merit in the fact that a washer of that thickness is not readily had"
???????? sure they are, but yes, in a bind I'd done the same.
Jon
nah, not even considering sparring...
The washers I was in need of were a 3/8 ID and a 3/4 OD..I learned they were labled SAE from a Bro Lo (BIL)..the beauty of them is that they will allow a 3/8 lag or hex head, or cap screw to be counter sunk and plugged with the more readily made 3/4" plugs..a 3/8 "standard" washer will not drop in a 3/4" hole.
I have a 3/4 plugcutter, and a 1'' tenon cutter..in this case 1'' was not acceptable.
Guess I could always have ganged a bunch up and turned them down to 3/4..but my metal lathe is a little Pratt&Whitney..more like for real little stuff, and metal turning is NOT my stong suit.
As to beautiful here? Yup. Make your eyes bleed it's so pretty.
as to steel prices..YIKES..just got a lb. of 2'' exterior torx drives..5.49 A LB...5lbs. of 1 1/4 SR screws was 17.99. left them on the shelf.
Gotta put new brakes on the van today..that ought to be exciting..when ya HEAR the back drums grinding it might be too late!.The wife said "got a funny noise when I stop"..uh-oh.
Took it fer a spin, and me thinks I hear rivits..oh well.
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Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Andy
You must be making a lot more money than I am.
Why cant you use the plastic biscuits, is it just cause you didn't have any available? Or, is there something special about the nickel?
Doug
You probably could use plastic biscuits, but they're not something I stock. Nickels on the other hand, I have a jar of. And it's not like they cost that much.
AndyArguing with a Breaktimer is like mud-wrestling a pig -- Sooner or later you find out the pig loves it.
Ed - The sink has square sides and a slightly tapered bottom. I did that with a belt sander and it seems to work pretty well. For my next sink I may rig up a router jig and then finish with the belt sander.
Dean
Thanks for the info guys. When I was in the remodeling business 20 yrs. ago the only soapstone was in chemistry labs! I guess I'll have to hire some local college kids to move the stuff- all my friends are old or have bad backs (or both).
Karl, Greenville, NC
I just finished a soapstone counter. The soapstone I bought was from Brazil and very hard. It was not as workable as the stuff I used to make pipes with in my hippy days. It also chips easily so you have to be very careful how you handle it. You don't see much but square edges on soapstone because of the risk of chipping it when shaping the edge. I could have bought slabs that were 79" X 39" X 1" but they were so heavy I could feel a hernia just thinking about it. Soapstone must be heavier than granite. We went with 2' X 2' tiles that were about 9/16ths thick. It was barely workable with a disc sander and a grinder for roughing. I used a diamond hole saw to cut the faucet holes. I used a stone composite sink from Home Depot and undermounted it by dropping the edge of the sink into the 1-1/8th plywood. I used PL adhesive to set the tiles on the plywood. I made matching cherry nosing with a lip to make up some width where the 2x2 tiles were not wide enough to cover the peninsula. I tried using a carbide router bit to round over 1/8th" on a sample piece and the bit got red hot quick and ruined it. I made a rip guide on my tile saw to cut the pieces for the backsplash. I had to build up the table on the tile saw because it only has a capacity for 16" tiles. To finish small gaps in the backsplash we used a sandless grout. Most of the edges were tight. The tiles were suprisingly square too which helped a lot.