I need some cap flashing to go over my 3/4″ window head casings. I cannot find anything suitable at local building centers or even the real lumber yards. The closest they have is aluminum z-flashing for 5/4 brick mold.
So I’m using 16 oz. copper and am at the point where the end flaps need soldering. I’ve never done any of this before. Can it be done with an ordinary roll of solder and a Radio Shack iron sold for electronics? I’ve been to roofing supply sites, but they sell big burly expensive irons, solder bars and ruby flux etc. for metal roofing. Do I need all that? Or is even a little silicone caulk enough?
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bump
I'm on it, Dave. Thanks.copper p0rn
Can it be done with an ordinary roll of solder and a Radio Shack iron sold for electronics?
No - you'll probably get better results with caulk.
If you fold the flashing right, there's very little chance of water infiltrating, soldered or not. Try to find some Geocel 2300 caulk and caulk from below. If there's any caulk on the surface, the copper will stay shiny under it.
Short of buying the proper soldering equipment, you might be able to solder the ends with a plumber's torch. Don't do it in place, though.
copper p0rn
>>Don't do it in place, though.
Yup, that sounds like good advice.
Thanks for the prompt reply.
I was also thinking of using strips of Flexwrap left over from when I flashed the sills before installing these windows. Just a 1"x1" square, or so, pressed firmly into place from inside the caps.
I was also thinking of using strips of Flexwrap
That's probably a better idea than the caulk. Good luck.copper p0rn
How about copper pop rivets? Probably don't need caulk but it wouldn't hurt.You could soft solder the joint easily if you can do it off the window. Clean with steel wool and use a resin flux if you use regular plumbers solder. If you use lead free solder,use the flux for that,and it is NOT resin flux.
I would use the copper rivets and if the bends are correct ,no caulk.
mike