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I recently bent and installed some copper flashings at the base of a sunroom project. The bending wasn’t the problem. (as I’ve seen this done many times) When it came time to solder my joints, thats where the scratching my head part began. My guess is 50/50 solder is best. The question would be, can I use a small torch and still do a quality job? I suppose I should round up a soldering iron (scratch scratch) Would appreciate some input. Thanks Dave Robushi NCB,INC.
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Dave -
Is there any chance that the flame from a torch could start something burning close by or underneath? If so, then use an iron. If not, then a propane torch with a small flame would do.
I would use 50/50 solder sticks. Not rosin core or acid core in a roll. Get a small can of solder flux and a small acid brush. The flux will be brushed onto both sides of the joint. Get the joints alligned and tack every 6" or so with a small dab of solder. Then go back to the beginning of a joint and flow it in. When the joint gets hot enough, it will suck the solder right in.
Also use some fine grit sandpaper on the joints before applying the flux.
Mix up a weak solution of baking soda and brush over the joint when done to nutrulize the acid. Flush with water after.
*Hey Mike , Why use the stick and not the roll? I have been useing the solid lead free for plumbing and it flows nice.I also used it on some flashing and a lamp ,am I missing somthing? Don
*Dave- Copper is a tricky one to solder because it absorbs heat too well. Overhearing is the main culprit here. Sheet copper warps when heated with a torch. You need a few practice mock-ups for openers to find out what works for you. I use roll 50/50 solder and a self igniting torch for larger crimped seams. The easiest is a 500w electric iron that I use for smaller stuff.A good set of irons and a flame on them is the best as you pull the solder toward the heat (i..the iron ahead of the joint) in a controlled fashion. As one iron cools you grab another etc.. Outside of the shop on a jjob site this may not be practicleOne trick is to use copper nails or tacks (punch a starter hole)into the fluxed flat seams. I use a dab under the nail head too. This will hold the seams down nicely. Sounds like asking for a leak but I figure that if the solder fails at the nail, which is now filled with solder, it's failing on the whole seam. In the case where I do use a few nails, I dab an extra drop on the nail head.You really have to practice. You'd be surprised how much easier working in warmer weather is compared to cooler hhemps.for instance. Good luck- ggal
*Don - cause mainly I can never find the solid in rolls. One hardware store nearby always has the sticks. Either would do. If I were doing this job I would also use an iron cause I have one. It's a real old one what has to be heated. But, if one does not have an iron and does have a torch, then a torch can work. Warping is why I said "small" flame and to tack every 6" or so.
*Mike , Thanks ,I didn't miss too much then . I haven't seen sticks around here for years.
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I recently bent and installed some copper flashings at the base of a sunroom project. The bending wasn't the problem. (as I've seen this done many times) When it came time to solder my joints, thats where the scratching my head part began. My guess is 50/50 solder is best. The question would be, can I use a small torch and still do a quality job? I suppose I should round up a soldering iron (scratch scratch) Would appreciate some input. Thanks Dave Robushi NCB,INC.