Brand name I tried was.. ” Just for Copper”
Anybody using this right now?
Whats the trick?
Im going back to the mapp gas, flux, solder and trying not to burn the house down. 2 out of 4 fittings I did today with this Just for Copper, leaked.
Brand name I tried was.. ” Just for Copper”
Anybody using this right now?
Whats the trick?
Im going back to the mapp gas, flux, solder and trying not to burn the house down. 2 out of 4 fittings I did today with this Just for Copper, leaked.
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Replies
Whats the trick?
do it the old fashion way.......
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
If you really want to quit sweating pipe, spring for a Ridgid Pro-Press and the crimp-on fittings that go with it. The one my plumber uses was about $1600, I think, and the fittings cost more than sweat fittings, but it's about twice as fast and has some major advantages, such as fire safety and the ability to connect to a line that is dripping water. Try that with solder or anything else.
http://www.propresssystem.com/
Bet ya a beer I can sweat a fitting that has water in it.Do you look to the government for an entitlement, or to GOD for empowerment. BDW
I'll bet you a case I can't!!!knowledge without experience is just information.... Mark Twain
http://www.cobrajem.com
Well, what about connecting to a line that has a drip that won't stop? My plumber just crimps on a valve, closes the valve, and starts building from there. I've seen guys shoving loaves of bread into pipe to make it stop dripping, and I've seen little balls at the plumbing supply that you can stick into pipe.
What's your secret?
Like your plumber "burn " a valve to stop the drip is the method of choice.
Yup I have done bread oh BTW don't use whole grain bread those seeds wreek havoc down the line.
Soldering a joint with water in it, is more of a prove I can do it sorta thing. If you're using water soluable flux then forget it.
Worst one in my career 3x2 tee on it's back Boeing job in Everet I swear pipe was 1/2 full , used a no5 rose bud I think we could have powered a steam turbine with what was coming out of the 2". Got it soldered & I hope I never see that again.Do you look to the government for an entitlement, or to GOD for empowerment. BDW
You guys using the Pro-Press at all?
Oh by the way, I already offered to buy you the beer!
Mac Miller is big on pro-press
I work for W A Botting they have the machine , most of my systems are victaulic & wirsbo oops excuse me uponor I'm not sure if I'll get used to wirsbo's new name.Do you look to the government for an entitlement, or to GOD for empowerment. BDW
It seems to me that one way to make a truly solderless connection is to use plastic! Tsk. Honestly, what is your opinion of plastic vs copper? Obviously, plastic can be more easily damaged, but certainly is easier to work with. Pros and cons?
Thanks!Tachitachi
Family in Tucson, business in the Far East, and heart in the Colorado mountains!
Done the little balls at the hardware store thing - don't work (least for me). I have a 100% tear rate on them getting them in the pipe. Tried everything to get a smooth egde to the pipe, the way I push them in, etc. I'm stubborn; went through at least 2 bags before I gave up and bought a loaf of white bread. Cheaper, works better.
White Wonder Bread! Don't use a bread with grain it it, or you'll end up regretting it (clogged aerators, etc.)
so what is the trick? I've done the bread thing...bled the lines...I always seem to have water in the LAST fitting i'm soldering...although I am getting better..
btw...anyone used those pre-soldered fittings? I think they work great in tight spaces! and is there any benefit to getting one of those tips for the MAPP that spreads the flame?
always wanted to know these things....knowledge without experience is just information.... Mark Twain
http://www.cobrajem.com
First thing I don't like pre-soldered fittings,
reason: when you heat it up to solder the joint the solder moves out of that ring creating a void, voids are a bad thing.
Tips are more of a preference --- like a stinger design to a welder.
I have an old Rothenberger tip that has a trigger on it to increase the airflow for a bigger flame, kinda neat but not really needed.
Tricks are more of a personal touch & what someone is used to.
#1 trick is to what we call "burnin a valve"
At the starting point sweat a valve on the pipe while the valve is in the open position & only connected on one side.
It takes some practice getting the heat right, you can heat the pipe a few inches away from the joint creating a heat damn this prevents liquid h20 from hitting your joint while your soldering which can crack the solder if water hits it before it gets a chance to cool a bit.Do you look to the government for an entitlement, or to GOD for empowerment. BDW
"#1 trick is to what we call "burnin a valve"
At the starting point sweat a valve on the pipe while the valve is in the open position & only connected on one side.
It takes some practice getting the heat right, you can heat the pipe a few inches away from the joint creating a heat damn this prevents liquid h20 from hitting your joint while your soldering which can crack the solder if water hits it before it gets a chance to cool a bit"
For me it seems a good bit of steam from heated water can prevent a good solder joint just as much as water - anyone have this experience?
PJ
Depending on how far I have to go, I will do a small subassembly, then pull out my a/c torches and use silver solder.
Use stale white bread, it absorbs more water.
I hate waste, so burning a valve is a last resort, but it works in areas where I don't have to go far, and/or have limited space. If you mention the valve to customers, and show them where its at, you can usually earn brownie points that way too.
The silver solder thing also works wonderfully if you have a problem joint you can't get to stop leaking, of if you have to work on really old copper.
Has anyone else used these? Cash Acme Shark Bites. We use them to transition to cpvc, you just plug the pipe into them. I have never seen one leak and they have been used in Europe for 20 years(reportedly). I think they are great for remodels. They are just a little pricey. They come with a clip that unhooks them and can be reused over and over.
http://www.cashacme.com/sharkbite.html
Scott
I've used the sharkbites on existing hydronic system repairs where I didn't want to have to drain down the whole system to sweat a couple fittings and compression fittings are no great bargain either. They are pricey, but also priceless if you're in a big hurry. They're removable so also convenient to cap a pipe temporarily while you work on the other side of it.
"A job well done is its own reward. Now would you prefer to make the final payment by cash, check or Master Card?"
Use mapp gas and sweat in a copper union. I have had lots of success with the water problem because when you sweat 1/2 the union on the offending pipe, the pipe is open and the steam can escape. The mapp gives you enough heat to make the sweat even with some steam escaping.
Then sweat the other half of the union on the other pipe, and voila, you have a water tight sweat!
DIA
Anyone ever used a "jet sweat"? It's basically a stopper on an aluminum rod, you put it up the pipe, turn the end which expands the stopper, sweat in a ball valve, pull it out and close the valve. I have a whole set of differant sizes
Yup
They work pretty good
Problem I have is I never remember where I left it or it's on the other job.Do you look to the government for an entitlement, or to GOD for empowerment. BDW
I had thread in here on this product about a month ago. Been using it ever since and really like it. First job had 2 leaks in 16 joints against the back of a fibeglass shower unit, since then almost 95% no leaks. Especially in high danger areas for heat and where the flow won't stop completely. I usually give it 1/2 hr or so before I repressure the lines.