Any one able to describe what it takes to soldering lead flashing seams.
Nearly finished with roof and have come to the chimney. Had some misc. sheets of lead laying around and decided to use as flashing. Historical feel, cheaper than copper, longer lasting, didn’t have to buy it. Shouldn’t have to seal seams but would like to as added measure at corner intersections of base and step flashing.
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Lower heat than you expect and clean , clean , clean..flux won't help much. You better practice on scrap first, and minimize the actual soldering as mach as possible by good lapping.
I used to solder organ pipes that had little tin or zinc, say 90% lead, and it wasn't an easy task to miter and solder them up.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
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"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"
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I repaired a lead shower pan about 25 years ago, I used scotchbrite to clean off heavy corrosion, used regular soldering flux, but used pc board solder due to its very low melting point. I used a 175 watt pencil iron, has tip the size of your thumb. Hope you don't have to use that solder, it's not cheap. Has not leaked to this day.
Brian
the base flashing IS Step flashing--- what you are referring to as step flashing-----is the counter flashing which goes over the step flashing--- but visually it steps up the side of the chimney
20-25 years ago ,in my early 20's i spent 5 years working in an industrial chrome shop---- much of my dailey work was building lead anodes to chrome plate mold & die, plastic injection molds etc.
lead melts at a low temp--something like 750 degrees--- we never soldered ANYTHING-- what we did was "lead burning"--- more like welding lead------ very fine tip and we actually did it with natural gas/oxy mixed----sheet lead is VERY easy to simply burn right through----and from the sounds of it---- in your application lead burning is totally un-needed
I would suggest not doing it at all----chances of you doing a good job on a vertical burn right out of the box are slight
stephen
References to base and step came out of a JLC article from 92'. Guy calls base what is on the down side of roof, face of chim, attached to decking. Step flashing up the rake of the chimney attached to deck. Counter flashing on front and sides inbeded in morter joints and hanging down over base and step.My main concern is the tiny little corner at the intersection of (using above terminology) the base and step. I'd like to dap and seal that corner.As others have said, lead being so malleable it bends and forms nice and tight but that same property makes it susceptible to tearing also. I'd think particularly over time as the roof deck expands and contracts constantly flexing that intersection.
That can be folded w/out soldering. And then can be reused when reroofed, soldered will not ( probably) survive a removal.Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations
"If Brains was lard, you couldn't grease much of a pan"Jed Clampitt
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that's 30yrs. from now and can be re-soldered than if it doesn't survive tear off.
I can't see any reason for this unless the roof is a very low pitch. Lead is very maleable and forms tight without soldering. It melts at such a low temp that you could easily ruin it.
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Like Sphere said, "clean, clean, clean."
Like Brian said, "Thin Electrical solder."
Like Hazlett said, "Very fine torch tip."
Like I say, "Use the smallest possible flame on the tip. Only melt a very small puddle, then get the flame away from the work for a few seconds to allow the work to cool. Lead conducts heat very well and so much will build up that you will get a large melted puddle if you don't let things cool occasionally."
SamT
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In the hospital. Blew out a gut.SamTA Pragmatic Classical Liberal, aka Libertarian.
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Good to have ya' back, it seems like it's been a few years...
Don't use flame , use a small iron if you must use the lead .
Copper would be longer lasting if it is indeed the base flashings you're hoping to solder . Lead is awfully soft and isn't suited for other than counterflashing in New England -- might ne different where you're located .
I'm with Hazlett on this one. The majority of roof flashing around here is aluminum, and it does fine without soldering.
John Svenson, builder, remodeler, NE Ohio