Hi all I need to get some drywall clips to join the edges together where there is no backing stud to nail to. Where is a good internet source for these? I did a search and all I could find were the things they use for corners and drywall repairs. What I am looking for is more like the sheathing clips used in roofing. I need them in 1/2″. Thanks all!
Handyman, painter, wood floor refinisher, property maintenance in Tulsa, OK
From building boxes and fitting face frames to installing doors and drawers, these techniques could be used for lots of cabinet projects.
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Replies
I think they are called instaclips... http://www.prest-on.com
For a small patch use a piece of 1x on either side to support the drywall, cut it about 6" longer then the hole and screw it the top and the bottom with 2 screws each, then screw your patch to the 1x.
It'll be faster then waiting for the clips. If you want to have some of the clips on hand for future use, check with a local sheetrock distributer.
Or check here http://www.rockitclip.com/
hmm those are all for drywall repairs. I saw those in my searches.What I am looking for are the clips that join together the edges of a full sheet of drywall. They look like an H. And I can't use a strip of wood behind the drywall because it is already sprayed in with Icynene.Handyman, painter, wood floor refinisher, property maintenance in Tulsa, OK
Pebble,
The prest-on link is what you are looking for. An "H" clip as you describe would not work for an inside corner where there is no backer block, that is what you were asking for isn't it? The Prest-on clip presses onto the end of the sheet that goes on the wall that has no backing, itis fitted on with the widest flange (with the little "teeth" ) on the back side of the sheet, leaving the short side with the finger that has the nail holes sticking out so it butts up against the stud on the inside corne,fasten the clip to the stud with a nail or screw, then fasten the opposing sheet to its wall right over the prest-on clip.They work pretty well, you just have to remember to apply them to the sheet BEFORE you hang it, guess how I know that! :o
You should be able to find them at your local drywall supply house or maybe your local lumber yard.
Geoff
P.S. the "corner backer" is the one you're looking for, follow the links by clicking "view" and it'll lead you to a better pic.
Edited 1/14/2007 3:46 pm ET by Geoffrey
Why not just frame in a 2x4 where the two sheets come together? No worries then. Costs about 3 dollars.Do everything you do to the very best of your ability, or don't bother doing it at all.
Decreased insulation performance - same reason for 2 stud corners and drywall clips there, too. Not trying to start an insulation debate, though.
Many drywall suppliers carry the hardware, too.
Edited 1/14/2007 5:07 pm by Steddy
I would think that any difference in insulation ability would be outweighed by the two sheets not being able to flex when secured to a stud thus preventing cracks down the road.
I would love to see more opinions on this subject, myself.Do everything you do to the very best of your ability, or don't bother doing it at all.
I just don't want to spend the time hacking out Icynene where the 2x4 would go :) And yes, decreased performance could result since the Icynene is only about 5" thick in a critical part of the envelope. I also aready have sheets of polyiso foam board covering the studs for a thermal break... I am sheetrocking over all this.Handyman, painter, wood floor refinisher, property maintenance in Tulsa, OK
I must have missed the post explaining that. It makes perfect sense to me now. I was thinking you were working on a studded and batt insulated wall. My bad.Do everything you do to the very best of your ability, or don't bother doing it at all.
Oh no problem. I kind of figured I would need to explain my situation as I go along. I knew there was a detail I forgot to add!Handyman, painter, wood floor refinisher, property maintenance in Tulsa, OK
Pebble I just went back to the start of the thread, I missed some of the info posted since my 1st post, so I assume you are not landing "on layout" since the're not right on 24" , So if turning the sheets 90` won't help, instead of cutting the sheets fasten the one sheet as close to the edge as you can, then fasten the next sheet, which is "floating", with glue that is compatable with the foam board. You may have to use a temp. support to hold the end of the sheet in place until the glue sets, but you will achieve a much nicer finish i.e. no trimming, a good tapered edge, and no clips to mud over.
Geoff
Hey that is a good idea. I am sure something like PL premium will work for that. And once I put the 5/8" sheet over all that it will be that much more flatter. I just realized something. This layer is not the finish layer. So it isn't important at all the edges that join together are tapered. So if need be, I can trim the 1/2" to align with the rafters.Handyman, painter, wood floor refinisher, property maintenance in Tulsa, OK
Problem solved ! :)
Geoff
P.S. if you do use the glue trick make sure it's compatible with polyiso foam , some of the glues will melt that stuff, BTW, what is green glue?
Edited 1/14/2007 6:12 pm ET by Geoffrey
Yeah! It was a duh moment lolHandyman, painter, wood floor refinisher, property maintenance in Tulsa, OK
Actually no, this isn't for a corner application. I have a room with vaulted ceiling that are layed out with 24" OC spacing, but this part was built in 1930 and the rafters are not exactly 24" OC. So if I wanted to butt the sides of the drywall sheets together without trimming them to fit and thereby lose the slight indent that is present for the tape and mud I would need to use the drywall clips that I thought I saw advertised in a past issue of FHB. I would look it up but the library is closed and an internet search is yielding nothing.It looks like Simpson should have them. That is where I got my plywood clips for my 3/4" decking.Handyman, painter, wood floor refinisher, property maintenance in Tulsa, OK
Are you running the sheets parallel to the rafters?
Are you using 1/2'' on that 24oc ceiling?A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Yes I am running them parallel to the rafters. I am using 1/2" parallel for the first layer, then mudding it, then Green Glue, then 5/8" sheetrock perpendicular to the rafters. The reason for the extra layer and the Green Glue is because the loft area is going to be a home theater.Handyman, painter, wood floor refinisher, property maintenance in Tulsa, OK
Wow.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Yeah. With neighbors less than 15' away and my propensity to listen to Saving Private Ryan at reference levels (with subwoofer and all) any little bit of soundproofing will go a long way!Handyman, painter, wood floor refinisher, property maintenance in Tulsa, OK
When you find it, can you post a link to the clips in question? I know ply clips and I have used corner clips for board. Never heard of these of which you speak.A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Pebble, I'm a little confused, are you talking about butting the tapered edges? Which way are you running your sheets? If you are running your sheets so the tapered edge is falling on the rafters, turn them 90` , the tapered edges should be perpendicular to the rafters. As to the Simpson clips, the "H" clips you described are for roof sheathing and are avaiable in 1/2" size, BUT you will have one hell of a time mudding and taping over them.
Geoff
Simpson makes them.
Mike
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