this may be a question for the knots gang, but you all seem to know everything, so I’ll just ask – can one apply a quick dry poly over spar varnish, and vice versa ?
I won’t go into why unless forced to….
it seems like it should be ok, but I’m just leary of some chemical incompatibility…
thanks
Replies
Both are chemically inert after they dry/cure. Just lightly sand the spar varnish with wet 200 grit, wipe clean and dry off, then apply the quick dry poly.
riun a test or put in a call to Goldhiller...
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Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Spar varnish stays a bit flexible, quick dry less so, so I wouldn't do it. Spar over poly, yes. Poly over Spar, no.
Mike
I'm gonna assume you mean an oil-based "quick-dry" poly and so will say, "probably". Can't recall ever coupling these two finishes, but I think you should be okay if the underlying coat is sufficiently dried/cured.....and you throughly prep the underlying coat.
A call to the manufacturer might be in order to be sure.
It does seem like an odd combination of finishes....particularly if you're intending to apply them both yourself and it isn't because you're combining these in a "retro" situation where one already exists.
Nonetheless, I won't ask why.
Edit: Mike brings up an interesting consideration that crossed my mind also. What you might get away with over the long haul could depend upon application and location. Might work okay on a piece that lives inside the house and is protected from extremes, but may well fail if used on an exterior door situation where struck by the sun, for instance or exposed to greatly varying humidity levels. (I wouldn't use an oil-based poly on the exterior of a door anyway) Window parts on the south or west side might also have problems with this combination of finishes.
Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.
Edited 4/22/2005 10:27 am ET by GOLDHILLER
thanks for the replies - the flexibility issue is interesting...
even though no one asked, I'll just blurt out the reason for this -
my cohort delivered two exterior doors - cedar - one finished with a gloss spar, the other, nekked. both are under 8 foot porch roofs, one getting a little sun, the other, none...
the spar gave a more orange look than I might have wished for, so I didn't want to do that to the other door, hence the poly I was putting on the rest of the trim. he thinks that even though it's protected and sun free, it should get the spar on top...maybe it won't be so damn orange over two coats of poly....
I was going to put some of the satin poly on the shiny orange one just to dull down the sheen....
now, aren't you glad you didn't ask ?
I'm thinking that if you wanted to avoid some of the resulting "orangish" color, you might have accomplished that by first applying a couple coats of Zinner's SealCoat (dewaxed shellac.....blonde, I think) Then follow on top of that with a spar of your choice.....and avoid the use of a poly on the exterior side all together. The poly alone would be fine on the interior side, but using the SealCoat as your first coat wouldn't hurt a thing either and might insure a closer color match to the exterior side in the end.......if both sides are being left "au natural". Then again, the exterior side is going to change color (patina) on you anyway from the exposure to UV.......faster than the interior side will.You might find this recent thread at Knots interesting. It's a bit of a read, but presents a possible alternative to "the norm" when it comes to choosing a clear film-type finish for an exterior wood door.http://forums.taunton.com/tp-knots/messages?msg=23121.1
Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.
Edited 4/22/2005 9:28 pm ET by GOLDHILLER
yes, I saw that thresd a bit too late...but maybe next time...thanks
Just realized why you were adding the satin poly over the spar. You can accomplish the same thing by rubbing the spar down with some #0000 steel wool. (Make sure it's had at least a week to cure first) This is gonna take some elbow grease. Get the light glaring off the surface (or place your face so that it does) and rub untilt he surface is uniformly dull-ish everywhere. (No cheating cause your arm is tired) If that comes out a tad too dull for your pleasure, just mount a cotton bonnet on a drill and buff it a bit. That should give you a nice satin sheen.Knowledge is power, but only if applied in a timely fashion.
Edited 4/22/2005 11:50 pm ET by GOLDHILLER
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