Special Case: Drywall over Brick?
I have a brick fireplace wall that I need to drywall. I’ve seen old discussions on this, but I have a few unusual constraints:
1. The brick is not level.
2. The brick is proud of the surrounding studs.
3. There is only about 3/4″ of space available for the drywall in order for the existing mantle to fit back as it was.
How can I attach the drywall, keep it level, and not consume too much space so the mantle can fit?
There are three pictures attached that illustrate the situation.
Thanks,
David in Iowa
Replies
How about expanding foam? You could temporarily attach some lumber shimmed out just the right amount and then fill in the remaining gap with expanding foam. After the foam dries, remove the lumber and attach the drywall to the brick through the foam.
I would use waxed paper to make is easier to remove the lumber (say 2X6) and I would space the lumber no more than 16" OC. Probably less, but it depends on how much foam you can get in there.
-Don
run a string line all the way across. (wall to wall)
Starting from where the brick just kisses the line ...
measure and shim out the framing to kiss the line.
Then ... measure every 16 or so across the brick ... cut furring to shim out the brick to the string. Glue and tack the furring on ...
let the furring glue set(PL premium)
then glue and drywall onto the now straight(flat) furring ...
I'd get sheets long enough to I could firmly attach the drywall to the furred studs ...
just float ... and heavily glue ... the drywall over the thin brick fur.
Jeff
Buck Construction
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA
or .... it the brick ain't so bad .... I'd still fur out the studs ...
and use 5/8th drywall over the whole thing.
and tons of PL behind the drywall.
I'd go this route of the furing over brick would be to thin to deal with.
Jeff Buck Construction
Artistry in Carpentry
Pgh, PA
use pl 5000 or pl premium construction adhesive,ive done the same thing you have to do now but their was brick every were,hallways,bedrooms,kitchen,etc...use the pl and attach the sheet right directly on the brick with 12 or so dabs on the sheet, with a few concrete nails to hold the sheet from sliding.that adhesive holds very very strong.i made a mistake and had to rip a half sheet off and it came off in little chunks.
Great suggestions everyone, thanks.
You can glue the drywall to the brick with joint compound.
Just remember to wet the brick down, first.
6 16 17 97 99
Plaster
The awful thing is that beauty is mysterious as well as terrible. God and the devil are fighting there, and the battlefield is the heart of man.
- Fyodor Dostoyevski
Set some sort of screw into anchors on about an 8x8" pattern. Adjust the screws in and out so they're all in the same plane. Put big globs of construction adhesive on the screw heads, then press the drywall into place and clamp it there somehow. If in a few low spots you can fit in a chunk of 3/4" furring then do that and screw the DW to those pieces.
Probably if you really looked around you could find some sort of special screw with a big perforated head that would be ideal for this duty. But likely your wife would be on your case before you found it.
I've had this same situation twice in my house. After some trial and error, here is how I solved it.
I cut the drywall to the correct heght, but left it an inch or two wide. Then I put it horizontal and squirted a 2in ball of "Great Stuff" expanding foam every 16in or so. Make sure drywall is horizontal at this point or foam will just roll off by the time you get the last bit on the drywall.
Now put drywall back to vertical and push it against brick. To hold drywall in place until foam sets, screw a piece of 1x or 2x into the floor and ceiling to wedge it in place top and bottom. For inside corners, you can also run the wood support on the adjancent wall to hold that edge in place. For the unsupported edge and the middle of the drywall, I rigged up a clamping system of string, screws and shims (it was ugly but after a few hours it was set and could be removed then holes were later filled)
The next morning you can trim the wide edge to the brick. In my case I then did the other side of the chimney. Oh yeah, for outside corners on brick, use the paper bead with metal reinforcement.
Amazingly, the two chimneys I had to use this technique on were much more solid than the drywall attached to the studs. That expanding foam gets hard enough to really hold solidly.
just tossing the idea out there for others to comment on..
how bout floating the brick with thinset...
get a nice smoother wall...
then glue the drywall to that?
never tried, and dont know what im talking about... but thats what popped into my head...
oak
You can glue the drywall to the brick with joint compound.
Just remember to wet the brick down, first.
I ditto Mike R. EZ Way.
We laminate drywall over brick and old plaster many times and we use only JC.
You can make the walls straight with min 1/4' on the high spots and max. 1" over the low spots. If you need more than one inch you can use plaster of paris to build this areas and finish the lamination with JC.
Apply the joint compound on the brick (heavy spots 3"-5" wide every 12")
If you need to build the wall out 1",apply the jc 2" thick. Then you push the drywall with a thick and wide piece of plywood 3/4" 12"x12" and a hammer.
Good luck.
With joint compound or any other sort of mortar, I'd be a little afraid that over time there might be a reaction between the layers (efflorescence, etc) that would cause the JC to split off.At the very least, install some screws or other anchors at intervals to provide some positive "purchase" for the JC/mortar.And it shouldn't be necessary to cover the entire surface with JC -- just stripes around the edges and maybe an X across the middle should suffice. (Though covering the entire surface may be easier.)
what ever way you go you can set up "forms" on both sides to screed the gyp mterial to flat to prevent wavy.
also i read today there is a plaster mix that is meant for direct application to masonry, like before there was drywall. it is very high lime portland little gyp. its a 3 coat system i cant wait to try it. maybe in my wood shop?
At the very least, install some screws or other anchors at intervals to provide some positive "purchase" for the JC/mortar.
Yes. That can only help.