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Obviously split jambs adjust for the actual wall thickness, but the ones I’ve seen are pretrimmed. Does this preclude shimming the door square? When you use these, do you just square the trim and nail to the framing? Doesn’t sound like a good idea to me. When do you use split jambs and when to you use solid?
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first ... we never use split-jambs anymore.. our typical door is flat jambs with applied stops..
and the casings are mitered , splined and glued..
but when we were hanging split-jambs.. i'd hang the hinge half first and shim it.. then slide the other half in and nail it off with the casings...
if i were hanging one today , i'd make sure the hinge jamb trimmer was straight and plumb and install the split jamb hard to it.. then shim the latch strike
someone who works with split jambs can tell you a lot more about them...
*Crusty -I'm not sure of the question since all doors, split jamb or not should be square. To hang a split first plumb the hinge side and nail thru casing. Then make sure reveals are good and nail the lock side. Shim behind each hinge, lock and bottom of jamb. make sure door hits stop evenly, put on split and nail it. Your done.It takes longer to unpack the door and get those cement coated staples out then it does to hang it.We only use splits.
*I've never seen split jambs being installed, so I didn't think about hanging the hinge half with the split removed. Makes sense though. I was planning on using "stock" trim in the girls' bedrooms, upstairs, a couple of the bathrooms, utility room, etc. and using wider trim in the other areas. So some doors would have stock trim on one side and custom (for lack of a better word) on the other side. Maybe this is too much trouble? I'd have to remove half the trim (they'd never get it on the right side if I ordered it that way). I don't know.Mike, why do you never use splits anymore? Geoff, don't any of your doors get special trim, or do you order splits witout the trim?
*splits suck.. they're too flimsy.. too hard to install right... the casing gets in the way of proper shiming...blah , blah , blah...oh , i don't know....i think of tehm as an inferior product... and i'm pretty easy to please..... i like pre-hung doors, mitered , splined and glued casing.....hollow -core molded doors..but not splits..
*Mike, I agree that solid jambs would be stronger and that's what I'll probably use. Do you buy pre-cut trim for your doors? If not, how do you cut the splines and what do you use for the splines?
*we usually order the casing with the door.. and spec it mitered ,splined & glued.. they use biscuits..if we're doing our own casings .. we spline with biscuits too..
*Crusty,I never spec split jambs for my own jobs but do have to install them for other contractors occasionally. The first step for me is to check the R.O. I check to see if the floor is level, if the jack studs are plumb and if the bottom plates of the wall are in a straight line. I make adjustments accordingly. If the floor is out I cut the bottom of the jamb and casing of the high side to match the floor unless the door is raised for carpet. I adjust the bottom plate to plumb and straight with a piece of 3/4 scrap and 3lb sledge hammer. Then I center the door in the opening and plumb the hinge side. I then check my margin around the door and nail the casing legs off. Then I shim starting with the hinge side in 3 or 4 places depending on the condition of the jamb. Before I nail the head casing I pull it in to the R.O. a little to close any gap in the mitre of the casing. Then I install the the other piece. I check the door operation continuously through the installation and make the necessary adjustments.
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Obviously split jambs adjust for the actual wall thickness, but the ones I've seen are pretrimmed. Does this preclude shimming the door square? When you use these, do you just square the trim and nail to the framing? Doesn't sound like a good idea to me. When do you use split jambs and when to you use solid?