i’m planning to use 2×6 t&g spruce for my floor. i like the look of spruce,but i am also using it to avoid the v.o.c.’s in plywood.
in the past i’ve used contruction adhesive to eliminate sqeaking,but i’d rather not given i’m trying to increase indoor air quality, and the idea of cutting and installing tar paper on 1 1/2″ floor joists doesn’t sound too appealing either.
any other ideas? will a non-toxic glue like elmers do the trick? thanks
Replies
Use PL premium const adhesive. It is moisture cure polyurethene adhesive that should not be off-gassing once it reacts with moisture in the air and the wood. It sets hard after a few days.
There is probably some carrier in it that evaporates for a couple days, but after that you are good to go.
I am curious about which floor level this is, if over living space or a crawl space. That can also have an impact on some detailing of how you do this.
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first floor over a icf foundation and second floor over that.
reasons I ask is that a T&G planking floor like that can let stuf thru.Like from a crawl space you get the spiders and moisture. That moisture will really affect the lumber too, so good idea to have VB down on the ground or under a slab to control that.When used for a second floor, if you don't use a ceiling of some sort, there will be dust trapped in the grooves that filters down on the dining room table or whatever when anybody walks around up above.
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stonefarmer
My sub flooring flooring is simple 2x8's I bought direct from my local sawmill, very cheap and extremely strong. I used local trash hardwoods (tamarack) and paid only 30 cents per bd.ft. massively cheaper than lumberyard wood. I also used those for joists etc.. Plus absolutely zero off gassing (and since it's a local renewable resource plenty green)
In general if you want to you can build your whole house out of sawmill wood for a lot cheaper than lumberyard wood.
The wood in my house would have cost over $850,000 purchased from a lumberyard, I paid about $25,000 for it. True it was rough and green at the sawmill but I know I didn't spend anything drying it and the nominal cost of prepping it from rough to finished really is trival..
I think the question was how do you stop it from squeaking....
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Piffin
I believe the phrase he used was any other ideas...
LOL, Well, you are certainly full of other ideas, but I was trying to figure out how using rough green lumber helps reduce squeaks - usually that increases squeaks because of the shrinkage.
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Piffin,
To date? About 7 years and counting.. Well parts of it already have a finished floor the rest will get the finished floor when those rooms are ready.
I started buying wood two years before I started on my house. It was stickered up and air drying the whole time.. so technically some won't have a finished floor untill the wood's been drying for 11 years..
I do agree with the use of PL premium to eliminate squeaks.
I've always had a lot more time than I have money which is why I've been able to build this place so inexpensively while still using fine materials..
time ain't money when all you got is time... greg brown
yeah, the lumber is already in my house,waiting for me to install it.
stonefarmer,
Since you already have the wood please ignore all of my suggestions. PL premium and rink shank nails
Frenchy, sometimes time is a factor. How long did you airdry your green lumber? Bob's next test date: 12/10/07