i plan on stack cutting alot of 2x10s or 2×8 common rafters, as i mentioned in my previous post. my question is, will a 7 1/4 saw, with a big foot swing table on it make a 3 1/2 in level seat cut, at a 63.5 deg. angle. and if so how far apart should the heel cut line and the level seat cut lines be.out here in conn. i don’t know what the min amount for the seat cuts’ are. also i don’t know if this should be another post, but when i have all my walls’ up and i have 1/2 in plywood nailed to them and using 1-1/2 ridge. is it esier to subtract a 1/4 in from the heel or the top plumb cuts. or just go with 3/4 ply so i don’t have to subtract half the ridge thickness which is 1-1/2. thanks everyone for any input. i’m guessing i’ll need a bigger saw for this, if so any input on which size saw. i’m hoping i could use the 7-1/4. by seperating the stacks and finishing them with a hand saw,to make the seet cuts’ complete for the 3-1/2 in wall. will that help me with the 7-1/4 saw,as long as i make a 3-1/2 in mark on them. or will it slow the process down.
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You will need a much bigger saw than a 7 1/4. I think the deepest they cut if about 1 7/8 under normal conditions. I might coax a bit more than that in your situation out of my saw and I know I can get that angle too....I think....
You gotta hope Tim comes along and shows you his bigfoot and killer chainsaw setups.
Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
I just asked the same question (about the depth of cut at 68 deg) over at JLC. With he swing table and the 10.25" Bigfoot you can cut 3.75" deep.Just ordered my swing table.http://www.woodsshop.com
nice work ,i also am a fan of jap style woodwork.
if you dom't mind me asking how much was your swing table.
Edited 1/11/2008 8:26 pm ET by T3
You should buy the 10-1/4" adaptor kit with your swing table.
It's well worth it.
I don't subtract anything for the sheathing. I add it to the total span.
The only thing I subtract is the ridge thickness.
Joist hangers have two inches of bearing, thats enough for me when it comes to rafters. I like more, but 2" will work.
Woods favorite carpenter
i wonder if the adaptor kit works like the big foot saw. also is it easy to install on the bosch worm drive. two weeks ago i got a price on the swing table and they said it was 80.00 now they tell me 150. maybey a little misunderstanding. does this kit really work well with the knew model, bosch 1677md. i'm wondering if i should just buy the bigfoot saw and swing table,just to save all the hastle and deciding which option is better. maybey a little more input around here might help me decide. thanks.
Edited 1/11/2008 8:02 pm ET by T3
Bigfoot doesn't make the saw, they make the 10-1/4" adaptor kit for them.
You can buy a saw ready to go from them, or buy the kit and install it yourself.
I installed mine. Not a big deal to do it.
Last I knew they only made adaptors for Skils and Bosch worm drives.
The installation is permanant to, meaning you can't switch it back to your old 7-1/4" saw. You have to cut off the a stud that holds your old 7-1/4" table on.
Woods favorite carpenter
what model do you have. i just spoke to bf they did tell me it was perm. oh ye did it come with instructions and how long does it take to change it.
Edited 1/11/2008 8:10 pm ET by T3
I have the Bigfoot mounted to a Bosch motor.
The Bosch feels better in my hands, but thats just my opinion. Both saws will last for a very long time.
Another reason was Bosch had a 15 amp motor as opposed to Skils 13 amp. My thought was bigger blade needed a bigger motor.
Woods favorite carpenter
since i have the bosch worm drive, i'll probably be better off with the kit. because mine has a 15amp motor. and the comfort is not bad at all.
I ordered it thru my local Tool Supply place for $145.http://www.woodsshop.com
Sorry Matt...I forgot you were into those big saws too. Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
No problem Jim, Tims the real deal when it comes to these saws.
Woods favorite carpenter
Rest assured, gang cutting requires an investment. I've got two 10" Bosch/Bigfoot wormdrives (one with 75 degree swing, one regular table), a 14" BigBoy and a BigFoot Headcutter mounted on a Stihl w/ 20" bar. I don't even want to add up how much money I've got tied up in those saws.
Anyway, in the very least, you should really consider investing in a 10" Bigfoot with swingtable as well as a headcutter and decent chainsaw to get started in gang cutting.
The Bigfoot conversion kits take about 1/2 to install the first time. Pretty easy. As Matt mentioned the only permanent modification to the original saw body is cutting off the stud. The rest is a matter of swapping parts. Seriously consider installing the kit on a Bosch wormdrive... the extra 2 amps will serve you will when turning that big blade in tough lumber.
How do you like the 14" saw?
Just the sound of the blade spinning has to be a little intimidating.
You get that saw I sent you yet? Woods favorite carpenter
Hi Matt,
Yes, the saw arrived on Thursday, but to be honest, I haven't even opened the box yet. Just haven't had the time... trying to beat the weather and finish a house I've been at since Thanksgiving!
To be fair, I think a 15amp Bosch motor is undersized when paired with a 14" blade. I only use it when absolutely nothing else will do the job... it doesn't even have a permanent home on the truck or trailer. In short, for me anyway, it's more of a novelty item at this point and I've kicked around the idea of selling it probably a dozen times. Bought it for a house that had 6x8 exposed cedar rafter tails w/ open soffits. View Image
I think that the 15 amp motor would bog down. Thats alot of blade to be turning over. At times on big compound cuts the 10" blade slows a little.
I'm thinking about replacing the factory Bosch cord with a much thicker one. It made a big difference on my old Milwaukee worm drive that Rob Wes bought.
If you thought about getting rid of the 14", we should have traded for the saw you just got and some $$.
Let me know what you think of the saw after you open it. You should be happy with it.
Woods favorite carpenter
Edited 1/12/2008 7:23 am ET by MattSwanger
What I really want is that saw you've been talking to Frenchy about... with the dado set-up. I've been trying to track one of those down for, literally, 7 or 8 years. OSHA sure doesn't like 'em, but I do!View Image
I have been looking for one for at least 5 years, like you I've come up empty.
OSHA is a buzzkill man, that saw is awesome. Whoever outlawed them needs his man card revoked permanantly. LOL Woods favorite carpenter
"OSHA is a buzzkill"Thats funny! Bob's next test date: 12/10/07
MattSwinger,
Have you checked with Timberwolf tools? That's where I bought mine from.
dieselpig,
Have you checked with Timberwolf tools? That's where I bought mine from.
Brian,
Have you looked at the joinery in the "waiting for a crane" thread.
If not I bet you'd enjoy it.
Walter Prediction for tonites game?
Depending on the job and the rake of the rafters,sometimes I establish the HAP depth so that i can use the rafter cutoffs for blocking without having to rip'm.
a 2" seat cut is nice though.
My 1 cent.
T3
Go big or stay at home.. to cut more than the thickness of a 2x4 you need a big saw.. Mafell makes one but it's thousands of dollars and most of them are 220 volt. Mikita makes the only other one. New it's about $500.00 and it's a monster! But it will cut over 6 inches deep!
Serious kick at start up and the blade guard is really flimsey so it will bind on a lot of cuts requiring you to lift it manually. Don't ever attempt to turn the saw once you start the cut.. with that 16 5/16ths inch blade there is simply too much blade exposed and you can bind the blade. The standard blade won't stay sharp very long, far better to get the carbide optional blade. Luckily sharpening the blade isn't very expensive. I switch between blades. When one blade is in being sharpened I use the other about the time the one blade is dull the other one is sharpened..
The saw is differant,, the blade spins slowly compared to the scream of a little 7 1/4 saw. and you will swear it will stall out as soon as it hits wood.
However sawing at full depth thru dry white oak and it really cuts! There is a great big neat pile of sawdust coming out the exhaust chute that is fascinating to watch...