I have a contract to install 2000 sq ft of clear cedar T&G 1×6 soffit (about 4500 l. ft). The client wants it clear coated and naturally I’d prefer to do it ahead of time. I have 4 weeks before I’m due to on site and the material is sitting ready at the lumber mill. I’m having trouble finding a local painter to do the work because they’re all too busy, so I’m thinking of negotiating to do the work myself. I can rent a pressure sprayer from the paint supplier and I’m looking around for a short term rent on some shop space.
The mill says soffitt material need only be stained on the visible side, yet many painters claim it should always be coated both sides to prevent moisture transfer. Anyone care to enlighten me further? Whether I find someone to sub this to or I do it myself, I need to know.
Thanks,
Sly
Replies
Of all the applications where cedar should be stained on all surfaces, I would think soffits would be the the least likely to benefit.
Unlike siding, trim or other outdoor cedar structures, the only moisture they should be exposed to is in the air. They are also able to breath in a way that cedar attached to sheathing can not.
My ( one side) stained cedar soffits are over 10 years old with no deterioration of the wood or finish.
The mill is even more adamant that siding NOT be sealed on the back side. Their rationale is that moisture will get in anyway and that it must escape somewhere.
I agree, soffitt will very rarely see direct moisture - or UV for that matter.
Lignum est bonum.
Spider webs and slug slime seem to be my soffit's biggest enemies
Slugs? What are those? Too dry for them in the Okanagan, only see them when I go to the coast.Lignum est bonum.
UV? What's that? I only see the sun when I go to Penticton.
The mill guys are kinda like HD drones, eh?
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
Not really. They actually mill the stuff and they get dirty doing it. Seem like pretty hard workers to me. Small, family-owned re-man mill that's busy as hell. Prices are sharp, quality is good. The local big box hardware places have given up carrying cedar, T&G and other products this mill makes because they can't compete.Lignum est bonum.
Yeah, but they don't install it and live with it.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
"The mill is even more adamant that siding NOT be sealed on the back side. Their rationale is that moisture will get in anyway and that it must escape somewhere."Seal only is good for lquid water.It does slow down the transfer rates for water vapor, but does not stop it. US Forest Products Labs have charts showing this.I don't see advantage or disadvantage (except for cost) in treating the back..
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
The advantage is that, with sealed wood, the rate of moisture movement within the wood becomes large relative to the rate of moisture movement in/out of the wood. This means that the moisture content of the wood tends to be more uniform across it's thickness, reducing the tendency to cup.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
Sly,
just as an aside, if you do spray(or even if you sub the spray work) I would strongly suggest you go over the sprayed board (immediately after application) with a good quality brush.....this will help ensure good coverage, even distribution and help push the sealer into the tiny cracks and crevices of cedar (or any wood for that matter), makes for a better looking finish too.
Geoff
Yep I was planning to do that. Still can't find a painter with time available so will be doing it myself. Not sure when though. There goes a few evenings, charge appropriately I guess...Lignum est bonum.