I am mid way thru my stair renovation (converting carpeted stairs to oak hardwood).
I have completed and installed the treads and risers within the “closed” part of the stairway (walls on both sides) and everything has gone well. I have now come to the part of the stair that is “exposed” on one side. Fortunately, the exposed side only comprises about 5 treads.
I have purchased mitered treads for the exposed side but before I can install these, I would like to add a decorative oak skirt board to put on the outside wall of the exposed side. Currently there is just textured drywall outlining the stringers. This was fine when the stairs were carpeted, but not a good look with the oak treads.
My question is what is the best way to match/cut this decorative skirt board to the existing stringers to minimize any gaps when I install the treads/risers? I made a template out of cardboard but is there a more precise way of doing this?
(I was planning on having the end of the risers cover/be flush with the cut ends of this exposed skirt board so when you walk up the stairs, the risers would cover up the cut portions of the skirt board)
Thanks
Replies
Dt
More accurate?
Well, I'd use pcs of printer paper if making a template. The are thinner and will make your fits so much tighter.
However, you have no tread nor riser in the way yet. I would suggest planning on installing a scotia molding under the tread and this will trim that joint all along the tread-up to the very end of your skirt cut. It also has the benefit of looking good. Of course, you'll add it under the tread on the closed part of the stair.
Are you going to mitre the end of the riser to meet a 45 deg cut on the stringer? Much nicer and more finished. If so, don't forget when doing the layout.
Thanks for the reply.
I like your idea of using printer paper, I will try that.
Yes, I was going to use some type of moulding inder the tread to cover up any gaps between the tread and decorative skirt board.
However, for the risers, not sure how difficult it is to mitre the riser to the skirt board? My initial plan was to just have the riser "cover/be flush with" the skirt board which would make my riser cuts on the skirt board need to be accurate so no gaps.
Is mitring a riser to skirt difficult.
Thanks
"Is mitring a riser to skirt difficult?"
Well, it's not easy.
However, there's a couple ways to do it and since you don't see end grain on the riser from the "show" side, I think it's worth it.
I've used a circular saw set at a 45 bevel-not easy by any means and depending on which way it tilts............might not work/
A compound mitresaw works well, if you can get the length of cut you need as well as the proper angle.
Handsaw, but let's be a little more realistic.
The circ saw, you can use a guide to keep the cut steady, or freehand.
With a comp. mitre saw, you need to fully support the work, probably clamp it down to the saw base and hope the saw tilts both ways (depending on the side of the stair the skirt is going.
Whatever you do (and describing these methods in print is certainly complicated), do not exceed your safety level. Fingers are important.
Thanks Calvin,
I've made the template using printer paper and now am interested in expanding my skills to see if I can make the mitered cuts. I do think the mitered cuts will look best, but I will first test on a peice of pine first to iron out any problems before using oak.
I will try it with a circular saw and guide and see how things go
Thanks again for the advice!
dt
No problem.
The first time I did it my heart was in my throat. I made the cuts with my OLD rockwell 315 a right tilt and had only one side open (that needed the right tilt) on that stair. Worked fine-cut 'em a hair long-you can shim the riser out if necessary.
Another stair later on, needed the bevel to flip both ways....................used the new comp. saw I got which flopped the other direction for one side, the circ. saw for the other.
Now, have a Kapex-bevels both ways-that's the way to go.
Take some pictures and walk us through your process.
One other thing-I tacked my plywood guide to the skirt-the nails don't have to be long-you just don't want the guide block to slide. Frees up both hands for the cut. The last bit of cut-handsaw.
Also, can't remember if I cut from the face or the back side. Backside you can cut all the way and that allows you also to "change" the tilt of the saw............
can't remember = not enough room in the noggin, something's gotta fall out.