Stair steps: Safe and Attractive ?
BilljustBill
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
I’m building an L-shaped, 48″ wide staircase inside a 16’X32′ storage building. It has 8 steps to the first tier, then another 8 steps to the second floor of a cabin/storage shed. Thinking that I’ll be carrying boxes and other bulky or heavy items, the steps will be 12″ wide and the shallow rise is 6-1/2″.
Since it’s not a dramatic “Gone with the Wind” type of staircase, what materials and finish would you use for/on the risers. treads. and transition tier that would be safe to climb, yet within a budget and use of a storage shed? Here is a shot of the 2X12 stringers before I reinforced them on each side with 2X6’s.
Your experience, suggestions and ideas are appreciated.
Bill
Edited 7/24/2007 11:09 am ET by BilljustBill
Replies
Using standard lumber, two 2x6s will lay a lot flatter than a single 2x12. A 2x riser placed tight against the bottom of the tread above greatly increases the stiffness of the tread nose.
You could also use two pieces of 3/4" plywood, glued together. They would require some sort of (metal/rubber/plastic/whatever) nosing, though, to prevent splintering of the tread edge.
I've not seen any composite decking that would seem to be suitable for a heavy-duty staircase, but perhaps plywood with composite on top would work.
I would be concerned about breaking into the attic. A 48" wide tread would span more than one truss (if you have pre-fab trusses). We have a similar desire to make a better access to the storage space above our garage, but it was constructed with pre-fab trusses with provision made for a standup storage space. So we are limited to a pulldown stair that fits between the rafters of the trusses. Would this be a problem for you?
Bill, 3/4" Advantek will work just fine for the treads and landing. We use it for temporary treads in new construction all the time. They take a beating.
Thing is, what's your rough rise at the bottom, landing, and top of the stairs? 6 1/2" might feel like you're taking a lot of baby steps...7-7 1/4" is nice for a comfortable stride.
If they are utility stairs, you don't really need risers, but, 1/2 ply would work fine.
They look pretty stout, good job.
I missed the attractive part<G> 5/4 Yellow pine tread is avalable in 16' lengths lengths 11 1/4" width with rounded nose, and is plenty strong enough. #2 common 1x8 ripped down for risers.
Someone's got it in for me, they're planting stories in the press
Whoever it is I wish they'd cut it out but when they will I can only guess.
They say I shot a man named Gray and took his wife to Italy,
She inherited a million bucks and when she died it came to me.
I can't help it if I'm lucky.
Edited 7/24/2007 2:00 pm ET by Snort
One point should be made: Before you can cut stringers you need to know the thickness of the tread and riser (if any). Otherwise things don't come out right.
So convenient a thing it is to be a reasonable Creature, since it enables one to find or make a Reason for everything one has a mind to do. --Benjamin Franklin
Whenever I do a set of cellar stairs or platform w/ steps in a garage, I use 3/4 AC for treads; usually shoot for 9-1/2 -10 inch cut on the horse ( 10 1/2 - 11 " tread) and no more than 7-3/4 rise. I use 1/2 " AC for the risers, glue everything and make sure to nail the risers thru the back side into the treads. I actually had a customer who had my floor finisher poly a set of cellar stairs like that a few years ago, ( I thought it was goofy, but....) they loved the finished product.
Bing
Like Dan said, the stringers are cut!
Whatever you cut off the bottom + droped the top would limit the tread choice.
be it 3/4" 1" or 1-1/2" in a shed I would screw them on so if the need to replace one ever comes it would be a simple fix.
Steve.NAIL IT !!!