When the work is all showing grain, nothing is painted, what is your favorite way to transition the inside skirt of a stair turn at a landing? See the attached pic, which shows the skirts just whacked.
Photos would be nice.
When the work is all showing grain, nothing is painted, what is your favorite way to transition the inside skirt of a stair turn at a landing? See the attached pic, which shows the skirts just whacked.
Photos would be nice.
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Replies
A real tall narrow plinth block?
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
Here is a hallucination I just had. I don't like it, but what else is there?
BTW, the skirt will have a cap, to match all the base detail elsewhere. It is a piece of cherry, 1" tall by 1-1/4" deep in section, laying flat on the base and skirt, so it projects 1/2" beyone the 3/4" thickness of the material below. That'll hide the endgrain of the transition board I am showing here.
And here is the hallucination that preceded the one I just posted. Looks like your tall plinth block suggestion, right? Plinths are typically thicker than the sticks that abut them, but this is flush.
Neither of the above. Looks like you used 1x4 material? Skinny it down to about 1" wide.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
I assume that the nosing and the face of the riser are both set back from the corner, not flush as shown in the drawing...?
If that's the case, then the skirt in the upper run is cut flush to the corner, and the skirt in the lower run is cut to lap over it. The lower skirt can have a plinth integrated into it to cover the full height of the upper.
A guy who can really answer this question in spades is Jerrald Hayes. I would email him or call him on the phone. He doubtless has photos he can show you. His company turns out some unbelievable stair and rail work.
Edited 11/20/2005 11:18 am by davidmeiland
Yes, nosing and riser are set back from the corner. Take a look at the attached.
The "plinth" is reduced to a piece only 1" wide. The cap is shown now. The only endgrain showing is that little tiny area where the cap atop the upper skirt joins its mate atop the corner plinth. Shouldn't be too objectionable down near your feet.
But I am still waiting for one of you stairtrim wizards to show me how it'd be done right.
I like that... mind if I borrow it?All the best...
To those who know - this may be obvious. To those who don't - I hope I've helped.
Could you make an outside corner protector (like you see for wall paper) out of the base cap? Or how about mitering the basecap 'down' so it frames the base? Combination of the two?
That'a what I was thinking of also, a nice wood "outside corner". Make it sorta look ornate instead of "chopped off"
Alas, I was always forced to do it "the cheap way" when working for others. Houses that I have built for myself have been done much more ornately. I've always done open treads with oak tread caps 'n stuff." If I were a carpenter"
I'll have to go shoot a different angle on this to really show how I did it. but here is a starter.
What you cannot see is that the upper (hidden) skirt is cut plumb back from the corner in the SR. The base cap trim is 2" so I cut the plumb cut in the skirt back 2"
The cap you see turns the corner with atypical mitre but it is a small triangle chunk because it immediately turns verticle along that plumb cut, then bevels bacl to the cap piece following the skirt up the stairs
Clear as mud?
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Clear as mud?
Yup.
I'll have to try for a picture this week then
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Here is where I have landed, conceptually, after listening to suggestions over at the JLC site.
There is a little triangle atop the end of the upper skirt, a pork chop at the upper meeting end of the lower skirt, and all are mitered into the corner. The cap miters are thus easy to do.
The thought of working with the power chopper to make the little triangle is making me cringe. I'll want to fix the little piece to the skirt end, then miter both together, I think.
I am anxious to see your method. It may be easier than this.
Thatis much like what I was descibing, except that my vertical plinth leg is on the uphill side of the corner.
And it doesn't require that extra triabgled piece so if this were stain grade, it would be a better option.
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I'm not quite with you. You say "vertical plinth." My sketch with the triangle up and pork chop down had no plinth. My concept of plinth in this context is a block with its grain running vertical.
The attached sketch shows the corner trimmed up with flush plinths, which because of their vertical grain, can be butted at the corner instead of mitered. Biscuits and glue or pocketscrews will hold it nice and tight.
I didn't show the capping, but it does the same thing over this as on my more complex arrangement with the triangle, pork chop, and miters galore.
The mitered arrangement is the most elegant, but this is the easiest.
Tell me more about your way, or attach a pic. Thanks.
Easiest for me to just shoot a picture. I'll be stoppong at that job friday.
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Maybe it's a Macintosh thing, or maybe I'm hallucinating, but i can't see what what you have in any of your PDFs. I can tell something is there but it's so faint I can't make anything out, Kinda like a polar bear in a snowstorm,
View Image
Here ya go, Jerrald. I thickened the lines. See my post earlier for a description of what's happening here.
Yeah that looks a lot like what we do. You are essentially "goosenecking" the skirt board on the lower run of stairs to meet up with the skirt on the upper just like the railing would have to do at that junction too. I think the trick is the proportion of the gooseneck and how you align the grain. Typically but especially when the skirts are stained we would miter the top of the gooseneck that aligns with the upper stair skirt so the grain line would run continuously and no end grain would show anywhere. Where the gooseneck meets the lower stairs skirt we've also filled the angle in with a radiused fillet so that it had the same sweeping turn up that a up easing on a railing would.
View Image
It took me awhile to find this thread again but here we go. BTW, I just noticed your prescription for exposoed grain meaning, I assume, stain grade. These are paint grade, except for the treads but works either way.
edited just means I cropped the image to keep size down
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