Hi All.
What is your preferred method for making earthen steps? I’ve tried securing PT risers with rebar, and a couple of other methods, but after a while they seem to go wonky.
Or are steps in dirt always a work in progress?
Thanks,
Scott.
Hi All.
What is your preferred method for making earthen steps? I’ve tried securing PT risers with rebar, and a couple of other methods, but after a while they seem to go wonky.
Or are steps in dirt always a work in progress?
Thanks,
Scott.
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Replies
Not exactly sure what you're doing... but for pathway steps we use something like a 4x6, 6x6, or 8x8 ground contact PT with rebar and/or timberlocs.
You need deadmen to hold the risers in place.
Both of your ideas are helpful. (Dan, yes, I think I need deadmen)
Snort, when you say: something like a 4x6, 6x6, or 8x8 ground contact PT with rebar and/or timberlocs.
Are you driving the rebar vertically through the lumber blocks to form risers?
..Oh... and "pathway stairs" is exactly what I'm doing, and it sounds much more appealing than "stairs in dirt". Thanks for the marketing lingo. :-)
One simple way to do the deadmen is to make rectangular frames of the timbers and stack them.
As vertically as possible
As far as deadmen, that depends on the situation. If the sides of the steps need to be contained, usually the case I guess you could call them deadmen? Anyway, we timber lock or toe screw the riser to that skirt piece, which runs back under the next riser. We run a piece of rebar vertically through both of those.
We try to wham the rebar as far as we can (takes a little guessing, pounding a long, wobbling piece of rebar may require a pretty stoned helper), put a piece of 1/4" ply w/ a hole over the rebar, then cut it with a sawzall or grinder. Then set that with a rebar nail punch.
We use deadmen in retaining walls, and maybe in very wide steps... like 10'... an 8x8 isn't going to go too far if the ends are anchored.
But do you have a pic of where these steps are going? Ed will lose it in the next cheap down, but it might help us help you now <G>
>>>But do you have a pic of
>>>But do you have a pic of where these steps are going? Ed will lose it in the next cheap down, but it might help us help you now <G>
Ooooooooo..... cheap shot LOL.
I'm going to try a bit of both your ideas over the next couple of weeks. I'll post some pics when I'm done.
Thanks,
Scott.
Here is a little trick I like... Little hard to explain in text, but here goes:
I use the 6x6s pinned down with rebar as specified above. A step will be a front "riser" 6x6 and 2 side 6x6 pieces to contain the step fill material. Then I nail PT 2x6s on top of those to create the "Lincoln Log" overlapped corner effect. Showing my age here.... using regular HD Galvanized 16p nails. This method locks the assembly together and produced a slightly more finished look as it hides the rebar ends and the 2x6 tend to check less than a 6x6. Plus there is no special hardware required. IE - TimberLock screws are nice but a little hard to find and a little pricey. A price of around $.80 each comes to mind without looking. A ripped 2x8 can be be used rather than a 2x6 to top the front riser to give the step a nosing.
If that is not clear, or you need a pic I could maybe look around and find one once I get back in town.
BTW - remember when building exterior steps of this type generally the rise is smaller and the run is longer than interior steps. There are a couple of guidline formulas for building comfortable walking steps; I like
Rise X Run=~75".
pour concrete
anything else is not worthwhile doing
But you should build them as a box, with the 4th side.
Yes, that was what I gathered from you (and intend to do). I also wanted to know what he was thinking.
Thx,
Scott.
You could do it the other way, with the riser timber full width, and the 2x just on the sides. Would provide a somewhat different look.
Yea - that's it Scott.
Except that the 2x6 doesn't necessarily have to go up underneath the step above. Depends on what you want the rise of each step to be.
BTW - I haven't found a 4th side to be necessary.