Posted a few times before on replacing particleboard stairs (carpeted) with oak. Oak railing is already installed. A salesperson at a big box store suggested not dismantling the entire stair-riser complex; instead, he stated that I should remove the tread overhang (making the tread’s edge flush with the riser. Then install the new tread over the existing one – glue & screw, etc – and subsequently install the new riser to cover the existing one (and of course that would cover the exposed cut-back original particleboard tread. He claimed that since each step increased by the same amount of height (that of the tread thickness) then the stairs would work as before and each tread would be the same vertical distance apart. I can’t put my “finger on it” but this just doesn’t ring true. What am I missing? Alternately, is this for real?
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You're missing your footing
You're missing your footing on the top and bottom steps. What's proposed would probably be within legal tolerances (most codes give the top/bottom steps some degree of a "bye" on height), but if you create more than an inch or an inch and a half difference in height (measured from tread top to tread top) then it can cause stumbling.
First measure the existing steps. If you're lucky the bottom step is a half-inch or so short, and the top one is a similar amount tall, in which case you can probably safely add an inch or so to without upsetting the applecart (and your visitors). If they're dead even you should probably limit added thickness to 3/4" or so, and if they're the wrong way around you should probably nix the idea.
Go back to the big box and tell the clerk to stick to selling and leave the building to those who have the answers before he finds himself being held responsible for someone falling down a set of stairs.
Code says 3/8" variance between the highest and lowest riser height.
If the stairs met code in there original form there is NO way that you can simply add a second tread as a cap to the existing and have it meet code.
Go here and do some reading and look at the drawings and photos.
http://www.arcways.com/pdfs/IRC2006.pdf
Assuming the stairs are built to code now what you will end up with are two rises that are wrong. Bottom rise will be too high , top rise will be too short.
Well good for you for listening to that little voice in your head when your subconcious heard the salesman spouting off a load of crapola. This shows that your instincts are good.
You've already got excellent responses from two of the best carpenters on breaktime. (both of whom I hold in the highest regard, as long as they don't disagree with me politically... Hee hee )
Listen to them for they know of what they speak.
I am a stair guy by trade and I just went back and checked, I did the exact thing you are attempting over twenty times last year (remove carpeting, and replace with hardwood treads and finished risers)
On every single one I wound up needing to re-frame the stringers in order to wind up with the correct rise everywhere. I can just about guarantee you will have to do the same. Most likely it will only entail some shimming, (be liberal with the glue on this step)
Also, one other thought, are your skirt boards painted or stained? you will probably have to sand the skirt and re-paint it (or stain & seal) because there will be carpet residue left there that will be visible once the wood treads and risers are installed. It's a heck of a lot easier to sand the skirts before you install the finished treads and risers.
I'm sure you are attempting to save money by doing it yourself, but I'd advise you to consider hiring an experienced professional to do the job. One reason being that he will get it done in about a fourth the time it's going to take you to do it. And how long do you want to be inconvenienced by having a torn - apart stairway?
Anyway.. good luck !
:~)
After reading the replies -Thank you! - I laid new treads on the existing and, sure enough, it becomes a disaster. Staircase segments (total of 4) are straight and I have a starter with only 4 treads involved to allow me to work it out.
I am now retired so that I can devote myself full-time to the project and the segments allow me to rip up one section at a time.
Thanks again for the info.