A recent hail storm damaged my metal roof. I’m replacing it with 24 gauge standing seam and the contractor suggested a stryated (sp?) pattern rather than the flat standing seam.
The current metal roof is flat between the ridges and looks good, except for several thousand dimples caused by the hail.
For the professional roofers out there, would you choose the stryated pattern (slightly raised ribs between ridges) over the flat pattern?
Replies
They typically striate thinner guage metals to make them more rigid. The striations keep the pans from "oil canning". I'd check to see if he's trying to slip a thinner guage metal over on you.
I'm guessing it's not standing seam roof either. Must be snap lock.
http://grantlogan.net
Come on guys. If you're Festing, it's time to pay up. $85.00? Half of you have already wasted that much on beer and p0rn this week already.
The sample he gave me is 24 gauge. He is ordering the coiled roofing and will form each piece on site. How would I know if he using 26 gauge instead of 24 gauge?
And as you mentioned, it is lock tight which you said is not standing seam. What is the difference and should I be concerned?
How would I know if he using 26 gauge instead of 24 gauge?
It should be on the rolls or their packaging somewhere.
I took a quick look and I didn't see any striated pans available in anything thicker than 26 ga. I brake form my metal, so I don't use a pan machine. I just took a look at some machines and striation rollers seem to be an option on several models. I didn't see any that would handle anything thicker than 24 ga steel.
it is lock tight which you said is not standing seam. What is the difference and should I be concerned?
"Snap Lock" profiles do just that. They click together when they are laid. All the bending is done before the pan gets to the roof. Standing seam pans lay together on the roof and then a machine is used to roll the seams closed. Nothing wrong with snap lock and the untrained eye probably can't tell the difference. http://grantlogan.net
Come on guys. If you're Festing, it's time to pay up. $85.00? Half of you have already wasted that much on beer and p0rn this week already.
I do have a written contract that says he will use 24 gauge. I will also have to re-check the contract because I requested that the seams be rolled, but I remember him saying they would be lock tight.
Thanks for your help. I appreciate it.
>I do have a written contract that says he will use 24 gauge. I will also have to re-check the contract because I requested that the seams be rolled, but I remember him saying they would be lock tight. <24 ga steel would be awful tough to seam on the roof with out damaging the finish. The majority of prefinished steel roof is snap lock for this reason.http://grantlogan.net
Come on guys. If you're Festing, it's time to pay up. $85.00? Half of you have already wasted that much on beer and p0rn this week already.
Would it be a guess that the striations might retard any mini-glaciers that form on the roof from sliding down the back of your neck as you head out the door one warming winter day? Assuming a moderate to low sloped roof, that is.
I doubt that it would retard cascading snow - there are other ways to accomplish that need.
Would it be a guess that the striations might retard any mini-glaciers that form on the roof from sliding down the back of your neck as you head out the door one warming winter day?
Why yes. It would be a guess. The striations are to reduce the effects of oil-canning, give more strength to thin ga material, and/or for appearance if one likes the looks of them.http://grantlogan.net
.......nature abhors a vacuum cleaner.....
One brand of metal I have used is available 24-gauge with either pencil ribs or striations. I do not prefer the look of the striations but it's a personal choice, I'd rather have two-rib or three-rib.
I don't think striations will help much with oil canning. To check you need a couple of short chunks of panel for a test. Screw the first panel down to a piece of plywood. Then, snap the second panel on. If it lays flat on the plywood without any help you're probably good to go. If it doesn't, but rather kicks up at a slight angle off the plywood, then you will have oil canning as soon as you push it down to screw it on. It's a manufacturing thing having to do with the way the snap-lock is formed, as far as I can tell.... some brands do it and some don't.
I've had panels sent from the factory, and others formed on site. You still have to order all the flashing in advance. I guess my preference would be site formed, so if there's a problem you can stop the presses.