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In most all 3 tab shingle application instructions I have read it says that you should cut the tabs off to form a starter strip which is ~36″x7″, with the adhesive strip right at the edge of the roof. This is contrary to the method that I have always used, and seen used which is to simply install the starter coarse of shingles with the tabs up the roof, instead of down – no cutting required. The same methods apply to the rake edges.
Here are some sample instructions that detail the manufacturer recommended method. Once you go the web page, click on “Installation” (on the right), and then page down about 2 pages and click on “Three-Tab Strip Shingles”. You will see what I’m talking about under the subtitle of “Starter Course:”.
Any thought on this? What about any of you pro roofers – how do you do it?
PS: I know that some folks use flashing as a starter strip, but I feel that drip edge is more than adequate.
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you should cut it down just as the mfr. says... it does a couple of things..
1st and most important, it puts the sticky shingle sealer closer to the edge... just where it will be on each succeeding course....this will prevent blow-offs... where you old method will fail before the mfr's method will...
2d .. it evens out the roof so the shingles all lay in the same relative angle of plane....
*Cut it off, just like it says right on the package.
*Mark,the manufacturers method you describe would undoubtably be better.That said, I will confess that I have NEVER done it in the approved way.A very high proportion of my work is roof tear-offs and roof repairs.I can remember tearing off only ONE roof in all these years that used the approved manufacturers method of cut starter strips.That one house was memorable specifically, because of the starter strips that I have never seen before or since.It is safe to say that in my area virtually all the roofs installed are with "upside down" starters.Despite this "defect" It seems to have virtually no effect on blow-offs.The only house I have ever seen that had the first course blow off was on the top of a hill in a pretty windy area.Most (all) of the blowoffs I repair are within 2-3 feet of the ridge.In my area I never worry about using "upside down" starters.Of course if I lived in a high wind area I might feel differently.I would also 6 nail all shingles which I now only do on particularly steep roofs.Good Luck All,Stephen
*stephen....when i started , i was taught to flip 'em upside down..then i was shown the starter course method...and i had one or two blow-offs... (the shingle mfr. ate it)..ever since i have been real careful to follow th mfr. directions.. you never know when you want them to stand behind their warranty..since we do operate in a coastal zone.. everything is spec'd for high winds..and we Block Island nail 'em (6 nails )..also why we push Hatteras so much....110 MPH rating...
*We put Hattaras on a dorm building in early April. We were a bit worried about blow off in cold (upstate NY) spring weather. Damn things sealed down tight the first day. It was only 55-60 degrees outside, and even sealed on the shady slopes). I'm a believer now...
*Wind code here specifies that we install asphalt sealer between starter and first row. That being the rules, it doesn't matter to us if the shingle is cut or just flipped over. Either way, the manufacturer's adhesive line won't make much difference. We also have to glue the ridge caps, glue any and all flashing, and glue the edges of the shingles that go up the gable (or dormer). 6 nail pattern too.I do very little roof work anymore. Gets too hot in summer here to do it.James DuHamel
*I'm voting for Stephen's methods. I also understand the need for sealing the edges in high wind areas however.I think I'd prefer to lay a bead of tar, rathe than cutting all the starters. Starter strips are also available. Stephen, on re-roofs (layovers, not a tearoff), do you cut the first course, so that you can bump the new shingles to the existing old shingles?blue
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In most all 3 tab shingle application instructions I have read it says that you should cut the tabs off to form a starter strip which is ~36"x7", with the adhesive strip right at the edge of the roof. This is contrary to the method that I have always used, and seen used which is to simply install the starter coarse of shingles with the tabs up the roof, instead of down - no cutting required. The same methods apply to the rake edges.
Here are some sample instructions that detail the manufacturer recommended method. Once you go the web page, click on "Installation" (on the right), and then page down about 2 pages and click on "Three-Tab Strip Shingles". You will see what I'm talking about under the subtitle of "Starter Course:".
Any thought on this? What about any of you pro roofers - how do you do it?
PS: I know that some folks use flashing as a starter strip, but I feel that drip edge is more than adequate.