FHB Logo Facebook LinkedIn Email Pinterest Twitter Instagram Plus Icon Close Icon Navigation Search Icon Navigation Search Icon Arrow Down Icon Video Guide Icon Article Guide Icon Modal Close Icon Guide Search Icon Skip to content
Subscribe

In every issue you'll find...

  • Expert insights on techniques and principles
  • Unbiased tool reviews
  • Step-by-step details to master the job
  • Field-tested advice and know-how
Subscribe Now!
Subscribe
  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Videos
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House
  • Podcast
  • Join
  • Log In
Subscribe

Discussion Forum

Discussion Forum

steep pitch roof, how do you cap?

| Posted in Construction Techniques on June 20, 2002 03:18am

I’m about ready to shingle my west wing and still haven’t resolved the peak cap issue.

  On normal roofs you just double the tab over and a row of them makes the cap. This is a 27/12 pitch roof.  If I doubled a tab over, with that steep of a pitch the shingle would just break in half.

  Another thought is to go to a tin bender and have a copper cap made and just nail that over the peak.

 I’ve seen sheet metal rolled and then flanges bent on it.  Producing a tube and flange.  But I’ve checked with local tin benders and no one seems to have an idea how to do this reasonably.  Most suggestions involve soldering a seam or brassing a flange on a tube. Obviously very expensive and nobody could assure me that warpage wouldn’t happen, turning it all into a warped mess, an expensive warped mess..

  Any other suggestions, any source for that old tube type ridge cap?

       

Reply

Replies

  1. HeavyDuty | Jun 20, 2002 08:09am | #1

    If the sun is hot enough, the regular asphalt shingle cap should just soften and follow the peak. I know the tube and flange cap you talked about, always wonder where to get them.

    Tom

    1. fdampier | Jun 21, 2002 05:20pm | #8

      Tom,

        evan if it folded over, wouldn't it expose the asphault?  I just can't see that work on this steep of a roof.. Kinda like folding a shingle over a knife.

      1. HeavyDuty | Jun 22, 2002 03:07am | #12

        If you make sure the sheathing doesn't meet at the ridge like a knife edge and if you double cap it, by the time the second layer goes on it would be pretty rounded. Another suggestion would be to put in a layer of ice and snow shield as insurance. My office has a 24/12 roof at the west wing, the asphalt cap has been there for twenty years now, still in good shape, the valley is going though. I think what Grant came up with is a more elegant solution, your house deserves it. I would use the cleats to allow some movement.

        Tom

  2. JoeH | Jun 20, 2002 08:29am | #2

    Frenchy, look here --------> http://www.oldworlddistributors.com/index.html#top

    Quite a collection of weird stuff, maybe you can find it. This house you are building sounds like it deserves more than a folded shingle up top, ya Left Wing Wacko. Joe H

    1. fdampier | Jun 21, 2002 05:22pm | #9

      Thanks Joe,

            Not what I was thinking but very interesting, worth consideration.

        You are right, I am left wing wacko,...... but it works for me   <G>

                                                                                         Thanxs for the help!

  3. JoeH | Jun 20, 2002 08:42am | #3

    Frenchy, found just the stuff, http://www.oldworlddistributors.com/ridgecrestingindex.html#cresting

    This one is great, I'll bet your house is just waiting for a piece like this. http://www.oldworlddistributors.com/pix_finial_ridge_heart.html

    View Image

  4. Redfly | Jun 20, 2002 09:59am | #4

    There's a guy down the street from me who just uses a blue tarp to cover the ridge and replaces it every six months or so.

    You know, I've been thinking about marketing shingle-colored tarps.  any interest out there?

    1. UncleDunc | Jun 20, 2002 10:04am | #5

      Only if you can also provide siding colored tires.

      1. 4Lorn1 | Jun 22, 2002 05:47am | #14

        Shingle-colored tarps. Siding colored tires. What next? Pickup-truck-on-blocks shaped planters.

        The new fashion statement: High tech, high dollar, artificial poverty flavored housing. Anyone can look rich while being poor with the creative use of credit. Are you rich enough to look poor. Prideful enough to look like a loser. Industrious enough to look shiftless.

        1. Handydan | Jun 22, 2002 10:27am | #15

          Just one question, how much ventilation does a tarp require to reduce condensation in a damp environment?  Thank you for a quick response, as the buckets are filling up!

          1. JoeH | Jun 22, 2002 04:58pm | #16

            Just wait awhile, it'll self ventilate.

          2. HeavyDuty | Jun 22, 2002 09:44pm | #17

            When you change the tarp every six months, that's all the ventilation you need.

            Tom

    2. User avater
      BossHog | Jun 20, 2002 03:08pm | #7

      "I've been thinking about marketing shingle-colored tarps."

      Great idea. But do you need felt paper underneath?

      I put tape on the mirrors in my house so I don't accidentally walk through into another dimension.

    3. HeavyDuty | Jun 22, 2002 05:31am | #13

      Here is a business proposition. We'll make tarps with shingle prints, we'll throw in the tires too, just print them on. Hey, if we can get 10% of the market share, it got to be in the hundreds of millions. Don't forget they have to change it every six months.

      Tom

  5. grantlogan | Jun 20, 2002 01:47pm | #6

    Here you go.

    http://www.bergerbros.com/products_edgings_ridge.html

    gl

    I am not sincere, even when I say I am not.

    1. fdampier | Jun 21, 2002 05:26pm | #10

      Great, just exactly what I'm looking for.......................

           One question, it looks like the shingles go on top of the flange and kinda butt up to the step.  Doesn't that leave a row of nails exposed?

        Has anyone got any experiance using this kinda flashing? 

      1. grantlogan | Jun 21, 2002 06:37pm | #11

        You install the ridge roll after the shingles (or slate or shakes ) are finished. You can either nail thru the flange of the ridge roll (how most install it) or nail down copper tabs so the nails will be covered by the ridge roll and fold the tab back up over the flange on the ridge roll. Pop rivet the cleat to the flange and you have no exposed fasteners. With the steep pitch of your roof, I'd probably opt for nailing thru the flange. You can also use neoprene washers on the nails (I've also used brass screws with washers) , but I don't like the way they look.

        gl

        We are confronted with insurmountable opportunities.Walt Kelly

Log in or create an account to post a comment.

Sign up Log in

Become a member and get full access to FineHomebuilding.com

Video Shorts

Categories

  • Business
  • Code Questions
  • Construction Techniques
  • Energy, Heating & Insulation
  • General Discussion
  • Help/Work Wanted
  • Photo Gallery
  • Reader Classified
  • Tools for Home Building

Discussion Forum

Recent Posts and Replies

  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
  • |
View More Create Post

Up Next

Video Shorts

Featured Story

Decompartmentalizing a 1940s San Francisco Home

This modernized remodel in the Bay Area is characterized by open spaces and an abundance of natural light.

Featured Video

Micro-Adjust Deck-Baluster Spacing for an Eye-Deceiving Layout

No math, no measuring—just a simple jig made from an elastic band is all you need to lay out a good-looking deck railing.

Related Stories

  • Cordless Drywall Cut-Out Saw
  • Podcast 461: Adding a Screened Porch, Insulating a Raised Addition, and Preventing Termites in Exterior Foam
  • Decompartmentalizing a 1940s San Francisco Home
  • Upgrade Your Window Air Conditioner

Highlights

Fine Homebuilding All Access
Justin Fink Deck Building Course announcement
Tool Tech
Plus, get an extra 20% off with code GIFT20

"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Sign Up See all newsletters

BOOKS, DVDs, & MERCH

Shop the Store
  • Tool Guide 2022
    Buy Now
  • Outdoor Projects
    Buy Now
  • 2021 Fine Homebuilding Archive
    Buy Now
  • Code Check Building 4th Edition
    Buy Now
  • Shop the Store

Fine Homebuilding Magazine

  • Issue 307 - June 2022
    • How to Raise a Post-Frame Home
    • Trimming Deck Stairs
    • Evolving an Energy-Efficient Envelope
  • Issue 306 - April/May 2022
    • Framing Stairs to an Out-of-Level Landing
    • Building a Zero-Energy Home for Less
    • Good-Looking and Long-Lasting Traditional Gutters
  • Issue 305 - Feb/March 2022
    • The Steady Surge in Residential Solar
    • The Fine Homebuilding Interview: William B. Rose
    • How Good Is Your Air Barrier?
  • Issue 304 - Dec 2021/Jan 2022
    • Why You Need Blower-Door Testing
    • Passive-House Standards for Everyone
    • Window Replacement With a Side of Rot Repair
  • Issue 303 - November 2021
    • Compact Cordless Miter Saws
    • Maximize Space with Thoughtful Built-Ins
    • 10 Essentials for Quality Trim Carpentry

Fine Homebuilding

Follow

  • twitter
  • facebook
  • instagram
  • pinterest

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Sign Up
This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
See all newsletters

Membership & Magazine

  • Online Archive
  • Start Free Trial
  • Magazine Subscription
  • Magazine Renewal
  • Gift a Subscription
  • Customer Support
  • Privacy Preferences

Taunton Network

  • Green Building Advisor
  • Fine Woodworking
  • Fine Gardening
  • Threads
  • About
  • Contact
  • Advertise
  • Careers
  • Copyright
  • Terms of Use
  • Site Map
  • Do not sell my information
  • Privacy Policy
  • Accessibility
  • California Privacy Rights

© 2022 The Taunton Press, Inc. All rights reserved.

X
X
This is a dialog window which overlays the main content of the page. The modal window is a 'site map' of the most critical areas of the site. Pressing the Escape (ESC) button will close the modal and bring you back to where you were on the page.

Main Menu

  • How-To
  • Design
  • Tools & Materials
  • Video
  • Blogs
  • Forum
  • Reader Projects
  • Magazine
  • Members
  • FHB House

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Podcasts

  • FHB Podcast
  • ProTalk

Webinars

  • Upcoming and On-Demand

Popular Topics

  • Kitchens
  • Business
  • Bedrooms
  • Roofs
  • Architecture and Design
  • Green Building
  • Decks
  • Framing
  • Safety
  • Remodeling
  • Bathrooms
  • Windows
  • Tilework
  • Ceilings
  • HVAC

Magazine

  • Current Issue
  • Past Issues
  • Magazine Index
  • Subscribe
  • Online Archive
  • Author Guidelines

All Access

  • Member Home
  • Start Free Trial
  • Gift Membership

Shop the Store

  • Books
  • DVDs
  • Taunton Workshops

More

  • FHB Ambassadors
  • Reader Projects
  • Podcast
  • Customer Support

Account

  • Log In
  • Join

Newsletter

Get home building tips, offers, and expert advice in your inbox

Sign Up See all newsletters

Follow

  • twitter
  • facebook
  • instagram
  • pinterest

Join All Access

Become a member and get instant access to thousands of videos, how-tos, tool reviews, and design features.

Start Your Free Trial

Subscribe

FHB Magazine

Start your subscription today and save up to set_percent%

Subscribe

We hope you’ve enjoyed your free articles. To keep reading, become a member today.

Get complete site access to expert advice, how-to videos, Code Check, and more, plus the print magazine.

Start your FREE trial

Already a member? Log in